ACSS - Advanced Carving Spring System for Deeluxe

[Abrax]

The drew lines and freshly cut shell...

[Abrax]

If You are in a warm room and the shell is all well warmed, there is a way to completely unhide the cutting place without demountng the upper shell. You can unscrew the 4mm hex-> YOU HAVE TO DO IT WITH A VERY STRONG HEX TOOL!!!!

And You can move the upper part below the heel...

[Abrax]

After some skillful cutting, the shell won't cut Your liner In the second plane You can see how the ACSS is mounted, There is a 5mm hole and through this hole, a special screw is put to keep ACSS in place. The screw is always sent with ACSS kit.

[Abrax]

Now You can see how much plastic was unnecessary!

[Abrax]

Use Your tools CAREFULLY and GENTLY, be EXTREMELY providing. You make one mistake and You can break Your skin or cut Yourself !!!!

[pokkis]

Sorry but i dont understand why you need that much front flex??
My only problem with Indy's is to get boot more straight up, and that can be easily solved if needed.

[Abrax]

When the post will do it's thing, You will get a pair of spring sets -> see the picture below.

You need to unscrew the upper nut and put the system apart. Do it with one of a pair a time to keep the things organised.

Then You have to detach the 2 5mm steel bolts from Your boots. When the system which is now beeing changed is out, take the U profile and unscrew special M4 screw from it.

Do not touch the slider with 2 M6 screws! They are glued with anaerobic glue!!!

Now put the U profile in place and put the big bolt back slightly striking it with a small hammer. Avoid braking Your shell now!

Now take a drill with 5mm drill and drill a hole through the hole in aluminum U profile. Be careful not to touch the lower shell !!! Only the upper shell needs to be drilled.

Take the special screw and put it in the hole from the inside, take 4mm screw and screw it together with a proper screwdriver.

The upper part is done now.

Now take the steel rod with a small spring on it and put it into a slider moving from the bottom to upper side of the shell. When the rod is on it's place, You need to put the smaller bolt in it and strike it in with a small hammer.

Now everything is mounted and put together right?

So take the big spring and put it on the place, take a pad and a nut and screw it gently.

You have Your ACSS mounted.

[Abrax]

Pokkis, I'm not really adding any extra flex!!!

With my 90kg even without this MOD, full forward flexing was possible. But now after the mod, gentle and fluent EC is just a piece of cake... The original shell makes this really hard to achieve.

Anyway, I am proposing the MOD, from the same reason why there is MOD for Head's ... To allow easy and intuitive flexing of the shell.

[Abrax]

I also had this problem with the back lean of the shell... But after the MOD is done, I can easily straighten the boot and nothing (except the lower nut) is limiting the move...

I don't really remember if it was the plastics which were limiting the move or the RAB system. But now the problem does not exist now with MOD 1 and the ACSS.

And... The nut has to be regulated because maximum back move is even too big for the backside turn.

[Abrax]

In my opinion the lower nut should be about 7mm from the lower aluminum part.
The higher nut should be about 3-4 mm from the top of the rod.

The system should work perfectly with this setup.

Anyway please take a 10mm key with You for further tuning.

[pokkis]

That mod does not allow any more back flex than there originally is.
Only by moving material of other places or simply moving/changing inner joint bult will allow that. Mine is setup as upwards as it is allowed without any plastic mode and it is pretty close what i would like it to be. I'm too lazy to move joint, perhaps again next summer, or not
I've never had any problems allwing boot bend forward, or to be exact after i got my BTS setup.

[Abrax]

I've modified my INDY's because I was not feeling comfortable with the flex after I've mounted ACSS.

The shell is hard as it should be, but in my opinion the hardboot upper shell should easily move foreward and backward. I don't like the plastic - limited move because it depends on the temperature. Cut shell's movement depends just on the strength of the springs. Which is exactly what I wanted to achieve.

With unmodified boots I was feeling hard and uncomfortable, it was last year's winter. I was riding with modified RAB system and I was hoping to change for the springs someday. This Year I was questioning myself if I will break my boots or will they become better.

Finally with really deep calculations and perfect help from Arnaud - the Head's expert, I've decided to modify my shells.

I can guarantee , that this range of modification helps, not impedes. Anyway I can understand different approaches, of corse the MOD is not a must...

[Hans]

My only problem with Indy's is to get boot more straight up, and that can be easily solved if needed.

Hi, Pokkis
Can you explain to me how to get the Deeluxe boots more straight up?

The forward flex is enough for me, even with the 'unnecessary' plastic in the boots.

[Hans]

@ Rafal

Why should the U profile be secured by an extra screw to the boot?

My Bomber BTS is only attached to the boot by the existing mounting hardware that is already with the boot.

[pokkis]

Hi, Pokkis
Can you explain to me how to get the Deeluxe boots more straight up?

The forward flex is enough for me, even with the 'unnecessary' plastic in the boots.

Here is picture of my setup. BTS with very short lower spring and nut tied as down as it goes. Basicly i could leave whole spring away due boot does not go more to upper direction. Upper spring is almost double long as original.