Support about extremecarving or freecarve/freeride Swoard boards, hardboots and bindings
Moderators: fivat, rilliet, nils
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Rietzschel
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by Rietzschel » Wednesday 8 December 2004, 21:38
Hello guys,
Can anyone give me a tip or trick how to wax the Swoard and how to treat the edges
Nils says on Bomberonline:
If the base did not take wax, it has nothing to do with grinding, but it can be because it was a 4000 electra that takes very little wax ! High density bases are indeed hard to wax!
I´m really curious how to handle the wax. Thanks on advance
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nils
- Swoard founder

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by nils » Wednesday 8 December 2004, 22:22
Just wax it like a normal board, it just takes in less wax than other bases, but basically you 'll see no real difference... ahh yes there is one: it lasts way longer without drying.... Jacques is waxing his board maybe 3-4 time a season max!!
Nils
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harald
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by harald » Thursday 9 December 2004, 9:02
I agree with Nils, but how often you have to wax depends on the snow conditions. Where I usually ride it is most often artificial made snow and icy. This is hard on the sole and it then has to be waxed almost after each training session since the sole turns greyish at the edges. On soft hero snow, the wax lasts far more longer. Besides, even the P-tex Electra 4000 sole glides far more better with waxing than without.
harald
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neil_swingler
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by neil_swingler » Thursday 9 December 2004, 9:23
Nils,
could we have a sticky summary in this forum detailing the factory finish of edges (e.g. bevels) and base.
Recommended ongoing maintenance.
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Hans
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by Hans » Thursday 9 December 2004, 9:25
nils wrote:ahh yes there is one: it lasts way longer without drying.... Jacques is waxing his board maybe 3-4 time a season max!!
Hi, Nils
You mean that you have to wax it hot, and immediately after that scrape the hot wax off??? And after that, brush it?
Greets, Hans.
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nils
- Swoard founder

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Post
by nils » Thursday 9 December 2004, 13:54
Actual existing models:
- Factory edge finish is 90°, and since it is hand made needs a small tuning job to have the sides and the angle even on all the edge length. You can ride it like that, but it will be more efficient if you do the job to make the surface even ( using a guide ).
- Wax job: Factory done using liquid Speed Wax from Vola (universal temp)
It glides well, but doesn't last too long ( 2-5 days depending on snow temp)
-Base Finish: Done using an old sanding belt 150 in order to have the smallest scratches as possible.
Future production:
- Edges> same needed
- Wax job: Same but hot waxing with machine, will last a bit longer than hand applied wax. Universal wax
- Base Finish: Same kind of finish with belts going as far as 200.
We have tried stone work on the bases, and find it slows down the board too much especially on cold snow...
Nils
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István
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by István » Thursday 9 December 2004, 16:15
Looking forward to test-riding the board in Zinal!!!
István
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Rietzschel
- Rank 4

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- Joined: Tuesday 9 March 2004, 17:55
- Location: Harderwijk, Netherlands
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by Rietzschel » Friday 10 December 2004, 13:47
Hi guys,
Thanks for your reaction.
Here is another question on which I would like your opinion:
What kind of wax is recommended or do you use yourselves for the existing models with ´normal´ circumstances
Thanks
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harald
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- Location: Oslo, Norway
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by harald » Friday 10 December 2004, 16:26
Previously I used ordinary Swix CH 6, 7, 8, 10 depending on temperature. Now, I have started to use yellow Briko ordinary wax, 0 to -7 degrees. This will cover most conditions. In addition Swix CH 6 and 7 for the very cold days (and evenings).
harald