BTS Kit Settings for EC

[Ironmike]

Hey Guys!

I'd like to raise a topic here that has supposingly frequently been discussed on the Italian Forum but not in the English one. (Couldn't find any topic using search query.)

So I'd like to know how the BTS Kit Springs should be set for EC style on a SWOARD concerning preload and standard forward lean.

Of course there's a personal subjective side to it. One likes the springs stiff, others prefer soft ones. But I think our experts in this forum know a general 'good' setting and the 'no-gos' in setting the springs.

So, to be concrete:
1. How much preload should the springs have (forward lean and backward lean springs) when in neutral position?

2. Even more important: where should the neutral position be?
When we think of and compare the Raichle 5-position locking system (5=most upright - 1=most forward lean), where should the springs be set in neutral position?

3. Should front and back boot have same forward lean in neutral position?

As I said, some people say it's just a question of taste/feel but maybe some BTS experts can make general statements like: "The more forward lean the neutral position has, expect the board/boot/feeling......,
the more upright the neutral position is, expect the opposite...............
Maybe it also depends on the binding angles

Thanks in advance
Mike

[pokkis]

I'm running on scale 5-1 descriped above both boots as 6 or 7 (boot can not come more upright due boots internal limitation) by little hacking of spring lengths with soft yellow ( in reality green) springs.

[rcrobar]

Hi Iron Mike

I think that this is an excellent and interesting question. I don’t own the BTS as I was fortunate enough to find a pair of Northwaves. I would like to add a few general and highly biased comments to get this thread going. I too would like to hear what riders are doing to their spring set up.

1. Preload –

I don’t like any preload at all. I leave about 1cm of play before the spring system engages. I found that when free riding or when making tighter slow speed turns it is easier to move your hips from the heel to toe side edge with little or no resistance from the springs.

For me another important adjustment is setting the springs so that the ankle is able to get the maximum range of motion; but not too much movement as this could cause an ankle injury. When the springs are FULLY compressed I did my best to cut the springs so that springs created a block or a stop just before the ankle could bend past the natural range of motion. From here the very hard shell has to do the job of preventing an injury.

2. Neutral Position-

It took me a long time to dial this in. I don’t have a clear answer other than you need to be able to straighten your legs. Set the lean too straight and it feels like you can’t bend your ankles enough, too forward and your thighs start to scream in pain because you can’t straighten them. A happy medium that feels right to you, I think trial and error is the best way to go.

3. Front and Back Neutral Position set with the same forward lean-

I know the web site says that they should be the same and this is pretty much what I have. I do have a tiny bit more lean on the back foot, but they look the same from a distance. I’m talking a few turns of the nut difference. Again, I’m not sure why, it just seemed to feel right.

Couple more thoughts. One mistake that took me awhile to recognize was my front foot bias. I thought that my front foot was centered on the board, but it was a few mm’s off. I couldn’t believe the difference in feel and the huge reduction in the front thigh burn that was gone after a few mm change. Also, where I ride it can get damn cold. I found that at -15C I couldn’t bend my ankles because the tongues were literally frozen stiff. I bought an inexpensive tongue that didn’t seem to be affected by the cold. The softer tongue that was not affected by the cold made it necessary to use a harder spring.

Take all this with a grain of salt from one weekend warrior to another.
Rob