BLAX Shoes and F2 Silberpfeil
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BLAX Shoes and F2 Silberpfeil
Hi, I've got a question,
could you give me some advice of the Blax shoes on the picture( the problem is I don't know the exact model, maybe you know?) and about the F2 Silberpfeil board(i don't know the production year- it is probably model older than 2002.
I ride for 6 years but till now only on softboots and got bored with jumps;) and wanted to to try some carving;) is this set good for me?
Thank's for any advice
could you give me some advice of the Blax shoes on the picture( the problem is I don't know the exact model, maybe you know?) and about the F2 Silberpfeil board(i don't know the production year- it is probably model older than 2002.
I ride for 6 years but till now only on softboots and got bored with jumps;) and wanted to to try some carving;) is this set good for me?
Thank's for any advice
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The blax model is "frank" from 1998 if i am correct. In 1999 they changed the model with the current spring system that is still mounted on the head stratos. Would not recommend buying this one if you want to modify it.
The Silberpfeil should be a 2001 (I have the same one in 162).
Ciao
Francesco (silber...)
The Silberpfeil should be a 2001 (I have the same one in 162).
Ciao
Francesco (silber...)
Francesco Swoard (1G175M 3G175M020 e 168H054),Wingergun205,Shaman193,TTubeS1/174GS,F2 (RS183'08 e'06/Lancelot/Slbpfl),Virus (Hurric./Dragon),Pogo (Hardc./Imp.),Burton (FP/Speed/PJ/CustomX),WildDuckFantasy, Duret168, OxygenProton168GS
Hi Cukin,
People here could write long pages of criticism on that boot and that board. Not to mention the binding.... and they actually would be right to do so....
But: if you are a beginner carver and the stuff here is cheap enough (say less the EUR 200 all-in) then go for it.
Make sure the boots fit you and the size of the board also fits your weight. And change the settings of that binding, whoever used it surely could not make a carved turn....
Cheers and have fun
People here could write long pages of criticism on that boot and that board. Not to mention the binding.... and they actually would be right to do so....

But: if you are a beginner carver and the stuff here is cheap enough (say less the EUR 200 all-in) then go for it.
Make sure the boots fit you and the size of the board also fits your weight. And change the settings of that binding, whoever used it surely could not make a carved turn....

Cheers and have fun
Thank you for your answer István ;)
The boots are my size, and the board is 168, I'm 180cm and 70kg so I think it fits:) I also know this isn't high end stuff ;) and it is as you said very cheap - about 100 euro. I asked the owner to send me more pictures of the board and as it turned out the condition was very bad- so forget about this board, but I found another one:
Nidecker Custom GS with burton bindings, it is a race board but maybe it will do to learn carving.
The boots are my size, and the board is 168, I'm 180cm and 70kg so I think it fits:) I also know this isn't high end stuff ;) and it is as you said very cheap - about 100 euro. I asked the owner to send me more pictures of the board and as it turned out the condition was very bad- so forget about this board, but I found another one:
Nidecker Custom GS with burton bindings, it is a race board but maybe it will do to learn carving.
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Way better..... what length is the board?
Also, if you are about to buy used stuff, these are the things to be observed:
- delamination: examine the board's edge carefully.
- cant/edge: make sure you still have enough of material. An alpine board has to be sharp. Sharpening consumes the edge. Also look for potential damages that cannot be repaired.
- broken core: check the top and the base of the board. A wrinkle is a potential sign of a breakage.
- binding: make sure it is not deformed.
- boot: old liners lose their performance. Also if it is a moldable liner than make sure you can re-formate it to your feet.
Kindest
Also, if you are about to buy used stuff, these are the things to be observed:
- delamination: examine the board's edge carefully.
- cant/edge: make sure you still have enough of material. An alpine board has to be sharp. Sharpening consumes the edge. Also look for potential damages that cannot be repaired.
- broken core: check the top and the base of the board. A wrinkle is a potential sign of a breakage.
- binding: make sure it is not deformed.
- boot: old liners lose their performance. Also if it is a moldable liner than make sure you can re-formate it to your feet.
Kindest
- frunobulax
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concerning the boots: i've had blax franz's a couple of years ago. i prefer much forward lean on my rear boot and i normally ride my boots fixed (not everyone does). this is not possible with blax franz, there is not enough support for the lower leg in this position (gets better with much heellift on the binding).
If you don't care that much for forward lean or if you ride your boots in walk mode, then its ok, but I thought you should know this.
If you don't care that much for forward lean or if you ride your boots in walk mode, then its ok, but I thought you should know this.
Thank you for the reply Frunobulax
I used to ride in softboots, so probably I'm used to leaning forward my rear boot. That is a very helpfull advice from you - thank's again.
I've got another question - can anybody estimate the value of that Nidecker board? ( as I wrote before it is a used one in a good shape)
Cheers.

I used to ride in softboots, so probably I'm used to leaning forward my rear boot. That is a very helpfull advice from you - thank's again.
I've got another question - can anybody estimate the value of that Nidecker board? ( as I wrote before it is a used one in a good shape)
Cheers.