I have read so much about the issue of broken bails on this forum when I was searching for new bindings.
My conclusion was (since I weight 75kg/179cm); I will not have problems with that, but still I will order the best bindig possible which is TD2ti.
Finaly after recieving Swoard and TD2ti I went on the three day ski trip and really had lots of fun with the new configuratiion.
But...
On the end of the third day I have broken the toe bail on my back leg.
Is it possible that this was caused by the boot overhang?
I knew that the toe bail is a bit overhanging but I thought this will not couse brakeage.
To make the bails shorter is not a problem, but to modificate the clip, hmmm...
It is stuck on the bail.
Does anybody have a sugestion?
Alen
Broken TD2ti's bails
Moderators: fivat, rilliet, Arnaud, nils
Broken TD2ti's bails
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- nils
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Alen
it is strange that it brakes on the front... it has to be a defect in the steel. Contact bomber and the should replace it.
Usually we tend to bend the back bails a bit.
I rode my TD2 ti pretty hard the last three days and had to shorten the front foot after the rear bail of the front foot bent a bit. But otherwise the Ti's are pretty strong (never broke them but i'm always carrying spares in the pocket
N.
Usually we tend to bend the back bails a bit.
I rode my TD2 ti pretty hard the last three days and had to shorten the front foot after the rear bail of the front foot bent a bit. But otherwise the Ti's are pretty strong (never broke them but i'm always carrying spares in the pocket
N.
Re: Broken TD2ti's bails
Alen, if I understand well your request please find my modification.Alen wrote:I knew that the toe bail is a bit overhanging but I thought this will not couse brakeage.
To make the bails shorter is not a problem, but to modificate the clip, hmmm...
It is stuck on the bail.
Does anybody have a sugestion?
I simply put Catek's lever on Bomber's bail...
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So you bend the existing bails? (on picture)
Catek's lever is as seen on picture or it is modificated?
Why the hell didn't they think to make them as short as possible?
Do you think it could have been caused due to the overhanging?
Because the problem is not solved if I replace the part, and it brakes again.
Alen
Catek's lever is as seen on picture or it is modificated?
Why the hell didn't they think to make them as short as possible?
Do you think it could have been caused due to the overhanging?
Because the problem is not solved if I replace the part, and it brakes again.
Alen
YesAlen wrote:So you bend the existing bails? (on picture)
On picture, lever is modified for my Head. But for my NW I use a standard Catek's lever.Alen wrote:Catek's lever is as seen on picture or it is modificated?
I don't know. Ask Fin (Bomber) to have a response...Alen wrote:Why the hell didn't they think to make them as short as possible?
As Nils said, I think it's a steel quality problem.Alen wrote:Do you think it could have been caused due to the overhanging?
Because the problem is not solved if I replace the part, and it brakes again.
It could also be a machining problem. The bail is broken at the very beginning of the thread. If the tool is too pointy, it creates a stress concentration at the bottom of the thread.
The best is to roll the thread, (no metal cutting) as used for aerospace fasteners.
JP
The best is to roll the thread, (no metal cutting) as used for aerospace fasteners.
JP
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