Nils is absolutely correct. Hardly impossible to even get 0°, not yet talking about maintaining which is even harder.
There's basically only one machine for tuning that can go down as low as 0.3° (Wintersteiger Trim NC - that I've never seen due to expensive price and small target group of hardcore racers, it exists in catalogues but in real world?). Most machines won't give out anything below 0.75° or 1° because it would ruin the machine to go so low as the condition is first to have the base completely flat with the edge, which is not down any more as the stones used for grinding the base would suffer from the edge, therefore anything below 0.5° is utopious if not using old sandbelt base grinders.
Technical question - base bevel
Moderators: fivat, rilliet, Arnaud, nils
Nils: now I got it, thanks. 
I was derailed from this logical solution as I came from this angle:
Richard: pls see above. I was looking for an explanation that tells me why a 1 degree bevel is optimal for a carving board doing carving (not switch, fakie, sliding, etc). Still don't get why a flat base would lead to a worse performance than a 1 degree bevel if we consider purely carving.
From all the previous responses I am getting the point that Nils made, i.e. it is more like a 'must' than 'optimal'.
Cheers
I was derailed from this logical solution as I came from this angle: So I was just wondering why it is the 'optimal' tuning....István wrote:Many times I read on manufacturers HP that the optimal tuning is 2-3 degrees on the side and 1 degree bevel on the base.
Richard: pls see above. I was looking for an explanation that tells me why a 1 degree bevel is optimal for a carving board doing carving (not switch, fakie, sliding, etc). Still don't get why a flat base would lead to a worse performance than a 1 degree bevel if we consider purely carving.
From all the previous responses I am getting the point that Nils made, i.e. it is more like a 'must' than 'optimal'.
Cheers
Re: istvan
Yes, Nils, but if this was the only reason, even a 0.2° would solve the problem...nils wrote:How the hell do you want to hand grind a zero degree edge without touching the base... they are at same height! It means when you grind the steel, it does touch the Ptex.... when you have 1° edge base side, you can polish/sharpen it without touching too much the plastic
Got it?
N:)
I think the reasons are the various we mentioned, all together...
_RicHard
Kessler The Alpine 168 - FTWO Speester RS Proto 179 (2012) - Burton Fire boots
Kessler The Alpine 168 - FTWO Speester RS Proto 179 (2012) - Burton Fire boots
I explained above too.István wrote:Richard: pls see above. I was looking for an explanation that tells me why a 1 degree bevel is optimal for a carving board doing carving (not switch, fakie, sliding, etc). Still don't get why a flat base would lead to a worse performance than a 1 degree bevel if we consider purely carving.
A flat edge can catch the snow much more than a beveled one.
Same speech (with the right ratio!) for a flat tip compared to a beveled tip (as the one of every board that exist on earth).
Why the tip is beveled and not flat? The same advantage you have on the beveled edge for the micro lateral movement you can have while riding flat.
_RicHard
Kessler The Alpine 168 - FTWO Speester RS Proto 179 (2012) - Burton Fire boots
Kessler The Alpine 168 - FTWO Speester RS Proto 179 (2012) - Burton Fire boots
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nils
- Swoard founder
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What i do
my personnal way of doing it:
New board: keep flat with 2° side ( 88 total)
When the base side becomes scratchy / uneven with riding after a few days i do then 1° base and 3 sides to keep the 88 angle
N
New board: keep flat with 2° side ( 88 total)
When the base side becomes scratchy / uneven with riding after a few days i do then 1° base and 3 sides to keep the 88 angle
N
Richard: ok, point taken. But what do you lose by giving yourself an additional 1 degree room for mistakes for riding flat? What is the downside of having a 1 degree base bevel? One thing is for sure, the angle of the edge will be 1 degree more - assuming a 1-2-3 degrees side bevel your edge will be again closer to 90 degrees. Some might say it is actually good, as your edge will be more resistant to wear (stones, etc). Other's might say, I just removed 3 degrees from the sides to make it more sharp to cut the ice and now I am losing 1 degree of sharpness...
Nils: I do the same. I do not touch it unless it is really needed. Then I use the long file bought from Mr. Tooltonic. But I think I have a better solution than his 1 degree piece of plastic: just put a piece of tape onto one end of the file, that will slide nicely on the base, while the other end will do the desired sharpening on the base of the edge. I think this creates something like a 0.1-0.2 degrees bevel.
Cheers
Nils: I do the same. I do not touch it unless it is really needed. Then I use the long file bought from Mr. Tooltonic. But I think I have a better solution than his 1 degree piece of plastic: just put a piece of tape onto one end of the file, that will slide nicely on the base, while the other end will do the desired sharpening on the base of the edge. I think this creates something like a 0.1-0.2 degrees bevel.
Cheers
You know what you loose: to me, almost nothing.István wrote:Richard: ok, point taken. But what do you lose by giving yourself an additional 1 degree room for mistakes for riding flat? What is the downside of having a 1 degree base bevel? One thing is for sure, the angle of the edge will be 1 degree more - assuming a 1-2-3 degrees side bevel your edge will be again closer to 90 degrees. Some might say it is actually good, as your edge will be more resistant to wear (stones, etc). Other's might say, I just removed 3 degrees from the sides to make it more sharp to cut the ice and now I am losing 1 degree of sharpness...
If for you a degree is too much, don't loose it!
If you need a board that doesn't catch an edge while riding flat (or if you just want to reduce it), loose it.
We are just discussing about benefits of one thing compared to another. If there was the absolute benefit without loosing anything, there would not be any discussion!
_RicHard
Kessler The Alpine 168 - FTWO Speester RS Proto 179 (2012) - Burton Fire boots
Kessler The Alpine 168 - FTWO Speester RS Proto 179 (2012) - Burton Fire boots
