Riding technique

[McFussel]

Hi Fivat an all the others,


I just read your stuff about riding technique.

I think its cool to build your own board ;o) But on some points I - and my friends, from which I have learned - ride different than you...

We think that a good Board width is about 15 to 16 cm and a binding angle between 75 and 85 degrees - or more
But I think that depends on everyones driving style. Maybe we wave our own one!

But in general you are right . Especially in savety and Clothes.
Last weekend a guy we meet just an our ago - carving too - crashed with a skidriver, comming down the hill in highspped. We hat to call the helicopter. This was really bad!!!

So I think on technique, there are some things to discuss an I´m looking foreward to this.

So stay save, whereever you are carving ;o)

[fivat]

Hi McFussel,

I think its cool to build your own board ;o) But on some points I - and my friends, from which I have learned - ride different than you...
[...]
But I think that depends on everyones driving style. Maybe we wave our own one!

Yeah... I repeat what we say in the page Philosophy (Why this site?):
During these last years, we developed a very efficient technique to lay turns (or simply to ride...).
Perhaps a few people will tell you it is not the "right one". But as you may see for yourself, it works perfectly well and gives off an easiness and fluidity feeling.

We think that a good Board width is about 15 to 16 cm and a binding angle between 75 and 85 degrees - or more

In my humble opinion (but yours can be different ), these angles and this width are too close to skawl... And thus the sytle of riding too.
Freeriding in soft boots too would prevent you from using such excessive angles.

Do you have videos or a link to videos of your friends?

-Patrice Fivat

[McFussel]

Hi Fivat....

I think I have to check for pictures.....

But you are right about the style. We are about 4 or 5 riders - and everyone has a different binding angle and way of riding.

Yesterday we were in Silvretta - area with very narrow slopes. Difficult to ride, but big fun. I tried a different binding angle -about 70 degrees, but I put it back to the angle bevore - I liked thar one more

So...everyone as he likes it.

But I like your boards - its cool to build the own ones - we have build our own Binding

Cool.....


So have Fun on riding

Greetings
McFussel

[philfell]

Here is my take on board width simply put for carving narrower is better, but life isn't that simple. A narrow board will tend carve better because you have less leverage to twist the board into a skid. But with a narrower board your forced to ride steeper angles in order to avaid booting out, this is fine on perfectly groomed slopes when you have alot of space, but riding with real steep angles make it harder to stay in balance and absorb small bumps in the snow, because you have less leverage on the board to make it skid you also have less leverage to keep the board tracking on a arc when thing get alittle rough. So finding a board where you can ride angles that keep you from booting out and still allow you to ride a board that is narrow enough to hold a good edge. Personally what works for me is a 19.5 cm wide board with 57 degrees in front and 54 in the back with my 25.5 boot size.

By the way the above paragraph is extremely simplified and the boards ability to carve has many, many other factors than merly waist width.

[rilliet]

Hi Phil,

I agree with you.
You are lucky with you 25.5 foot size (for those who don't know, this is the foot length in cm).

With my 29.5 and your angulation, I would need 22.3 cm waist width to get the same specs as you.
I have 23 cm with 54/46.5 angulation.

So I see that with the same booting out, we both found the same solution toward our respective morphology.

Jacques

[rcrobar]

Hi all

It seems to me that a “boot out” board width measurement should be taken/measured at approximately the center of the rear foot.

A board with a 22cm waist and an 8m radius will have a different width measurement at the rear foot then will a board with a 22cm waist and a 13m radius; the board with the 8m radius will be wider at the rear foot.

It also appears the same modo point size boots, that are built by different manufacturers, do not have the same “footprint” or outside measure from heel mechanism to toe bail. My foot measures 28cm, but by my calculations I need a board that is wider than Jacques, who has a foot size of 29.5cm?

I realize that you use 84 degrees as your measure for how far a board can be tipped over on it’s side and still maintain an edge in the snow.

How are you calculating board waist width as a “boot out” measure, when stance angle, boot manufacturer, and radius all seem to be a factor?

Have you gathered a spreadsheet of radius, boot size and stance angle data, or do you simply use a protractor and a ruler as mentioned earlier?

Would it be possible to explain your method, as I’m not sure that I am calculating this key measurement correctly.

(Any suggestions Nate?)

Thanks
Rob

[NateW]

You could calculate the width at the rear binding from the waist width, sidecut radius, and taper. You could figure that out with some trigonometry from the "top view" perspective.

Turning that into a stance angle for a desired-edge-angle-at-boot-out (or vice versa) would require a measurement of the longest part of the boot (toe ledge to heel ledge) plus a measurement of the vertical distance between the topsheet and the plane of that 'longest part' measurement. You could figure that out with some trig fromt he "front view" perspective.

If you wanted to get really detailed you could figure in the cant and lift too, but, don't ask me how.

I have a few projects in front of me already, but I might put this into Javascript when I get some free time. Until then, if anyone wants to do it on their own, you can download the code for my existing calculcators if you want something to start from. The links are at the bottom of the main text on this page:
http://www.natew.com/frames.cgi/software/snow/html.Main

[rilliet]

All this is much too complicated to me...

As I said, I mesure an aproximative angle of 84° with protactor and ruler, on the rear foot, but then I adjust the whole thing on piste, on hard snow.

Jacques

[McFussel]

Wow, havent been here for weeks.

When I read the messages, the only thins I can say ist TRY OUT.
Last time I was in Sölden, there was Virus and I could try some Prototypes. This was realy interressting.
I tried a 17cm narrow board - it was cool. It was more stable and calm to ride. But the most funny thing, the stance was way bigger than on my Board - I had a more agressive way of driving.

So now my board is tuned - i asked the guys to add me 4 inserts to get a bigger stance.

Result: Tray out everything and find your own personal setting!!!



Have fun in the sun....

[roman]

hey mcfussel, alter schwede! every time there, when things go around carving?! saw that you where in discussions about boardwidth too. it's a interessting theme ask 10 people and become 10 answers (except you ask friends you ride with!). but in the end it is fun to see, we can do the same carves on different boards. i can bend my 'stealth' around in 4 m radius, if i want to. and this board is way hard but also i can do full laid turns with it (and that are the ones i love..!) and it is only 17cm in the middle. anyway, hope to see and your friends soon!
carve on,
(dermitdemblondenbärtchen)
roman