Bumpy base and TD2

[harald]

Hi,
In another thread (about broken TD2) a discussion about stiff metal bindings and wide boards was started. I use TD2 with my Swoard 2nd generation. What I have noticed is that now the base is very bumpy, not even. It seems that the base now have 3 concave grooves from the front bindings to the tail, making waxing very difficult, but it does not interfere with riding since mostly I am on the edges anyway. Is that something that happens to every board after use? Is it the TD2s that cause the problem or will it happen with every binding? Will I be better off using my F2 Race Titanium with my new 3rd generation? The base do not look good and I am afraid that something will break. I will appreciate experiences from other forum members and also from the Swoard team.
Greetings,

[nils]

any binding can do this, it can be caused by overtightening, small compression of the core in the ash...usually just an aesthaetic problem... I had in on the gen1, not on the gen2 or 3..

Nils

[oliv]

I noticed that with my F2 Race Titanium on a F2 Speedcross. I found difficult to apply the appropriate torque on the screws when you install the bindings for the first time and when you don't the experience.
The experience that I have now shows that I overtightened the screws and that a light torque is far enough the get a perfect hold of the plates on the board.

[RicHard]

My opinion is that is absolutely normal that something, under the screws, is compressed a little bit more than the other part of the board due to screws tightening.
I disagree with people that say "don't tight too much the screws": especially on a new board, when the materials has to find their comfortable position under the big pressures we have while riding, it's dangerous not to tight the screws a lot because the movement of the riding can make the screws untighten a lot.
Hope I've been succesful in explaining it in english!

[István]

I think the key here is to regularily check the screws and adjust if needed. No bumps on my boards. Cheers

[st3v0]

You can use a dynamometric key, but you have to know how many kg you have to use in order to avoid a overtightening.....(sorry for my spaghetti english)
Maybe Nils know it

[harald]

Thanks. As you say, it might mostlybe an aestecic problem. I do not affect the riding performance, but it makes the waxing and scraping little bit more difficult. I let the snow do the most of the scraping anyway.

[RicHard]

Thanks. As you say, it might mostlybe an aestecic problem. I do not affect the riding performance, but it makes the waxing and scraping little bit more difficult. I let the now do the most of the scraping anyway.

Ehm... but... if that suerface doesn't touch the snow, why are you worried about scraping even the inside of the holes?

I leave the wax there...it doesn't touch the snow...

[harald]

The problem is that the holes and grooves touch the snow. So especially when it is cold with fresh and especially wind blown snow, a newly waxed board does not glide at all when the holes and grooves are filled with wax, even if the rest of the surface has been scraped. This makes the board very difficult to handle at flat sections. It also happens that it is necessary to slide quite distances on flat sections from the lift to the slope, like last week-end. In that situations it feels like glue under the board and maybe it is necessary to walk rather than slide. However, after some runs the problem disappears. My other concern was that the grooves/holes could make the board weaker and finally delaminate or break. From the answers it seems that this should not be a problem.

[RicHard]

The problem is that the holes and grooves touch the snow. So especially when it is cold with fresh and especially wind blown snow, a newly waxed board does not glide at all when the holes and grooves are filled with wax, even if the rest of the surface has been scraped. This makes the board very difficult to handle at flat sections. It also happens that it is necessary to slide quite distances on flat sections from the lift to the slope, like last week-end. In that situations it feels like glue under the board and maybe it is necessary to walk rather than slide. However, after some runs the problem disappears. My other concern was that the grooves/holes could make the board weaker and finally delaminate or break. From the answers it seems that this should not be a problem.

I didn't notice such problem of "adherence".
My board slippers properly even without scraping the wax from the holes...

[harald]

Hi,
The cause of my extremely uneven base is now detected. Unfortunately, the board have delaminated under the front binding. It don't look nice.