What flex for me?

Post by **drcr** » Wednesday 20 October 2004, 15:44

Would a 161M or 161H be best for me, which would you recommend (w/o concern for what is available)? I'm a little dude at 5'6" (168cm), Shoe: 42 (at least in my birks), Weight: 145lbs. (66kg).

Thanks,
DrCR

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Post by **fivat** » Wednesday 20 October 2004, 17:06

In the page Board selection, you can read:

A board with a softer flex is easier to ride but is less stable and will support less pressure during a hard carve. If a stiffer flex is selected, expect the opposite.

If your ultimate goal is extremecarving do not hesitate to select the stiffer model, as it will provide more support during a hard carve.

Using a stiffer board will not obstruct the rider from turning in any style it simply requires a little more leg strength to maneuver.

If, on the other hand, you are looking for a board that is easy to ride, select the softer flex. The softer board requires less effort to maneuver, but is slightly less efficient when extremecarving.

It also depends on your riding style and... on the snow conditions: if you are used to soft snow, choose the stiffest flex (H for you); if your slopes are often icy and very hard, choose a softest flex (M for you).

Patrice Fivat

Post by **drcr** » Wednesday 20 October 2004, 18:06

I'll probably go for the H stiffness. I'm also looking at the 168M now too as my 5'6 was an estimate and I could be closer to 5'8. Let's assume 5'6 is acutal and I got a 168M. What are the advantages of a longer than 'normal' board? Better in the powder right, but very much inferior on the hard stuff? Even if I turn out to be 5'8 (~173cm) just go for the 161H anyway to enjoy the advantages of a smaller board.

Thanks for the help Fivat!

DrCR

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Post by **fivat** » Wednesday 20 October 2004, 20:37

Longer Swoards are also wider. Since your feet are big (for your height)

you should choose the 168M! (see table 1 on the page Board selection).
It's crucial that your feet don't touch the snow to perform extremecarving. Some testers were afraid of using a long Swoard along to the choice made in the tables. On the snow, they were surprised and said that they didn't feel the length (but felt a high stability). It's due to the special board construction and especially the distribution of torsional stiffness (which is controlled by the ATC Matrix).

For myself I have only one Swoard: the one whose flex and size fit to me perfectly for extremecarving.

Our philosophy is really different from other companies. I don't say "ah, today I wish to make small turns, so I take a small board", or "ah, today I'm going to use a long board for speed and big turns". No!

With my Swoard I can do every program! The ATC Matrix and the EC technique allow choosing many turn radius by playing with the pressure in the legs.

Patrice Fivat

Post by **drcr** » Wednesday 20 October 2004, 22:06

Cool deal, thanks.

I got to find my Mondo size.

That extra 11mm ( ~2/5 inches) really makes that big of a difference though?! And if it ise of that importance in this case, what about in general? (looking at buying an all-mountain powder friendly alpine too)

Post by **fivat** » Wednesday 20 October 2004, 22:28

Oh yes, for such widths...
210 mm, 221 mm and 231 mm: you can feel the difference!

I use the 168H. Once I tried a 175M (which doesn't fit to me) and I was not as comfortable as usually, especially because of the width: my toes and heels were too far from the edges and I had to make too much efforts. Trust the tables, they are well done!

Patrice Fivat

Post by **drcr** » Wednesday 20 October 2004, 23:02

Ah, OK. After I pick up a Swoard I'm thinking about getting an all-mountain apline, the Donek Axis in particular. Worth spending money (not sure how much yet) to get it at 22.1 (22) cm instead of the standard 21.5cm? Perhaps if only for seemless transition from board to board?

Thanks Fivat!

Post by **pokkis** » Wednesday 20 October 2004, 23:06

I would not spend money for that 6mm, i would rather spend it getting radius more shallow

There are two ways, either take Axis or 4WD and change radius or take FC or WCR and make them wider and slightly softer.

Post by **drcr** » Wednesday 20 October 2004, 23:17

pokkis wrote:i would rather spend it getting radius more shallow

You'r talking about the sidecut, right and I want it larger or smaller? (Forgive me I was totally alpine ignorant as of just few days ago and I'm still learning the jargon.)

Post by DW » Thursday 21 October 2004, 6:51

I got an 177 23cm waist all mountain 13m radius board last season. Not a standard board, but one that is listed in the custom section. Once I got use to it I loved every minute on it. I am quite a bit heavier then you though so that board may be a bit much.

Shallower means bigger radius. Alot (most) of all mountain boards run a 10.5-11m radius. This was one of the reasons I went with a Coiler. Got to love the Flames.

DW

Post by **drcr** » Thursday 21 October 2004, 8:19

Oh, ok, I get it. No sidecut would have linear edges = no turn. Hum, I'll have to take a look at the 'pre-fabricated customs' over at Coiler for an all-mountain then. Was that the shortest size?

Sean from Donek said widing the Axis from 21.5 would do very little for my stance angles.

Ok, looking at the Stoked1 video, I would not be able to carve in such a fashion in the Axis, FC, or similar apline 1)not at all, 2)yes, but not sustained 3)sustained but not as tight. Perhaps limited to what is in the stokes1 vid at 2:35-44? (Hope you guys aren't ticked off by this but I just want to make sure I know what's up before spending twice the money on a Swoard, which I'm willing to do. I don't mind building a quiver...and 168Ms are still available according to the pdf. woot! Really wish the USD would get stonger compared to the Euro though.

)

DrCR
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Post by **pokkis** » Thursday 21 October 2004, 9:26

Unfortunately you need to forget Coilers if you want to ride on this season snow, according info on web.
Chris can also make you moded 4WD or or WCR with reasonable price tag and in time. As well Sean too

Post by **drcr** » Thursday 21 October 2004, 16:50

OT: I'm trying to deside on bindings. Looking at the F2 Race Titaniums and TD2s. The only thing the TD2s allow that the F2-RTs don't is cant and lift adjustment right? How important is that feature (I'm an alpine newbie)?

Post by **pokkis** » Thursday 21 October 2004, 17:08

If you ask it here, answer is it is not needed and if you ask it in Bomber or Catek forum it is a must

My bindings will have no lift or cant, if that helps you

Post by DW » Friday 22 October 2004, 3:06

I forgot about that order wait thing... I ordered mine at the beginning of the season and barely had it for a last few days a year ago. Prior or Donek are definately options I really like Prior boards but they were more expensive to get the width and radius I wanted. I have been to the shop in BC and they are really nice guys.

As for bindings, if you plan to follow the EC recommended style (most comfortable stance in my opinion

) then I would just look for some used TD 1's with 0 cant disks. There should be quite a few people trying to get rid of theirs to get TD 2's over at bomberonline.

DW

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What flex for me?

What flex for me?

Re: What flex for me?

Long board?

Oh yes

Don't forget about Coiler.

Order time is true...