Good afternoon,
I have just bought DUAL board (168) and wondering what is the proper set up of the bindings for this board? Does the center of the board is moved a little bit to the tail? I would like to use the board both on the powder and on the slope, so I would like to know whether the center holes are designed for the slope or represent the average settings?
My height 178, weight 75, do the center holes are proper for me?
(I use soft boots)
Thx a lot
Bindings set up on DUAL
Moderators: fivat, rilliet, nils
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rilliet
- Swoard & EC founder
- Posts: 714
- Joined: Tuesday 26 March 2002, 10:39
- Location: Lausanne, Switzerland
- Contact:
B@ambi,
One of the features of the DUAL is that it is both twin-tip and directional. It means that the sidecut is centered under the bindings (the shape under both feet is the same) but the board is longer toward the nose than toward the tail. In other words, the insert holes have some setback for off-piste and when you ride it on-piste you get the same behavior in both directions, except the nose and tail lengths.
You should try first with centered bindings, and then give some setback for offpiste if you need it.
Hope my explanation is clear enough...
Jacques
One of the features of the DUAL is that it is both twin-tip and directional. It means that the sidecut is centered under the bindings (the shape under both feet is the same) but the board is longer toward the nose than toward the tail. In other words, the insert holes have some setback for off-piste and when you ride it on-piste you get the same behavior in both directions, except the nose and tail lengths.
You should try first with centered bindings, and then give some setback for offpiste if you need it.
Hope my explanation is clear enough...
Jacques
Thx a lot for the replies.
I will try the center holes as soon as the snow will appear in Moscow (-25 and no snow at all right now)))
But to be honest, I don't understand the reason for making twin-tip board. This shape is the most popular these years, however I am used to think that the proper position for all Swoard boards is directional, but making it twin tip u mean that duck is also a good one?
And one more question which I forgot to ask. What about the width between the feet? the standard approach is height*0.29, however this board (as all carving ones) is a little bit bigger than usual (for example, proper board's length for me for all standard boards is 158-160 (my height is 178) while the length of DUAL is 10 cm greater.
I will try the center holes as soon as the snow will appear in Moscow (-25 and no snow at all right now)))
But to be honest, I don't understand the reason for making twin-tip board. This shape is the most popular these years, however I am used to think that the proper position for all Swoard boards is directional, but making it twin tip u mean that duck is also a good one?
And one more question which I forgot to ask. What about the width between the feet? the standard approach is height*0.29, however this board (as all carving ones) is a little bit bigger than usual (for example, proper board's length for me for all standard boards is 158-160 (my height is 178) while the length of DUAL is 10 cm greater.
-
rilliet
- Swoard & EC founder
- Posts: 714
- Joined: Tuesday 26 March 2002, 10:39
- Location: Lausanne, Switzerland
- Contact:
B@mbi,
Of course you can ride the DUAL with duck settings.
However, thanks to the ATC-Matrix system that concentrates the power under the feet, a Swoard board seems shorter than it is and is easy to ride for its length.
Jacques
The DUAL is a twin-tip under the feet only. Same is the Extremecarver in fact.B@mbI wrote:But to be honest, I don't understand the reason for making twin-tip board. This shape is the most popular these years, however I am used to think that the proper position for all Swoard boards is directional, but making it twin tip u mean that duck is also a good one?
Of course you can ride the DUAL with duck settings.
This is an approximate rule but it depends also of your boots and bindings stiffness (the softer it is, the wider distance you need) and also of your own preference (more stable or more easy).B@mbI wrote:What about the width between the feet? the standard approach is height*0.29
Our opinion is that most people are riding too short boards for proper carving and offpiste. The reason may be fashion or perhaps because most people are using counter-rotation technique and want to do freestyle tricks. Both are easier with a short board.B@mbI wrote:however this board (as all carving ones) is a little bit bigger than usual (for example, proper board's length for me for all standard boards is 158-160 (my height is 178) while the length of DUAL is 10 cm greater.
However, thanks to the ATC-Matrix system that concentrates the power under the feet, a Swoard board seems shorter than it is and is easy to ride for its length.
Jacques
I really agree that a lot of people is using too short boards even if with the actual technologies you can ride a 175 cm freeride board without any kind of problem. The advantage comes when you go off piste and you have to float in deep snow, especially in almost flat zones, size matter.
I'm 175x90, old school and one of the last directional stances, 52/53 cm wide and +25'/+10'; always centered on the inserts that means with the natural board setback. A lot of people now use negative angles on the back foot, some say the best compromise is 0 (zero) on the back. Imho.
Your choice; greetings to wonderful Moscow
I'm 175x90, old school and one of the last directional stances, 52/53 cm wide and +25'/+10'; always centered on the inserts that means with the natural board setback. A lot of people now use negative angles on the back foot, some say the best compromise is 0 (zero) on the back. Imho.
Your choice; greetings to wonderful Moscow
Burton Speed Wide 168 - Nitro Shogun 168, Torque 164, Slash 171, etc. - snowboarder and windsurfer