16 years since l bought gear.... looking for advice....

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Alex
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Post by Alex » Wednesday 3 November 2010, 10:14

Arnaud wrote:RC10 should be easily tunable because the base looks good. Maybe in the next future I will have a look on RC10 to check how we can improve this boots for EC ...
Stay tuned :wink:
I've completely tuned the UPZ ATB...cutting the shell to achieve forward and backward flex movements. As soon as possible I'll put a description with pictures :wink:
Swoard PRO 168M 00001, 3G 168H
F2 Race Titanium
UPZ RC10, UPZ ATB

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Post by starikashka » Wednesday 3 November 2010, 12:04

Flywalker wrote:Now.... Prior FLC or WCRM..... 163 22cm waist or 169 21cm waist.... hmmmmm....
Why those parameters are making difference? And what is it?
i`m learning

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Post by Flywalker » Wednesday 3 November 2010, 13:34

alex wrote:I've completely tuned the UPZ ATB...cutting the shell to achieve forward and backward flex movements. As soon as possible I'll put a description with pictures :wink:
Looking forward to it!

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Post by Flywalker » Wednesday 3 November 2010, 13:46

starikashka wrote:Why those parameters are making difference? And what is it?
Well...

l want to buy Prior because l am Canadian. l am a carver first... but love to go off piste. l live in northern Japan and we receive huge amounts of snow. A few people have suggested that l look at the FLC or WCR in a standard 21cm wide or custom built to 22cm. This is instead of buying a 4WD which was my original plan... however l was told that l would enjoy carving much more on one of the metal boards.

l am coming off of an old Sims CON 166 and have no experience with all mountain boards. Like l said in my very first post, it was the only board l owned and l went in all terrain with it. People who know the CON and the modern Prior boards have told me that regardless of which one l choose(FLC or WCR) it will be easier to ride everywhere than the CON was. That board was stiff but quite wide...27/21/26. lt was my all mountain board because it was my ONLY board.

The next board will also have that role so l am trying to decide if l want it a little shorter but wider or a little longer but narrower. EC looks totally awesome and l wish to become proficient at it.... but powder, steeps, trees(ESPECIALLY the trees!) and whatever is in my way is also fun, too (^_^)

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Post by leeho730 » Wednesday 3 November 2010, 14:25

If you're looking for wide board and wants to do EC, you might want to consider swoard.... It's 22cm wide, optimised for EC, and with wide waist it is ok for powder. The flex is freecarve oriented but I've been using 168M and the board is versatile enough to be used on soft snow.
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Post by WinterGold » Wednesday 3 November 2010, 18:15

Flywalker, you try to bring together two completely different worlds - carving in EC style on slopes and riding trees in "huge amounts of snow". That´s almost impossible. Of course you can use a wider alpine board fairly well in powder, but it has its limitations, especially if space becomes an issue.
Why don´t you consider buying two boards or even better - two setups?
Having bought an RC 10 and Sidewinders, it seems that money is not the biggest issue when choosing your equipment.
I would go for a dedicated freeride board or even a pintail (like a Fish board). And you could think about Softboots as well ... :wink:

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Post by starikashka » Wednesday 3 November 2010, 20:22

There is no need for two setups. Hardboots are comfortable to ride the powder :-)


Flywalker. I understand your patriotizm :-) That`s good :-) do you know why board parameters are making significant difference so you need to make a decision between those?

In the board selection a hardest job has to be made by you :-) it`s to decide what exactly you need :-) It seems you have done it :-) But there should be an expert, who can explain why you should invest in metal board :-) or any other :-)
i`m learning

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Post by Flywalker » Thursday 4 November 2010, 4:38

Hi Winter Gold (^_^)

l understand your comments fully. Of course a free ride board would be a better choice for powder because that is it's domain. Carving boards are built for groomed runs.

In 1997l did my Level l and in 1998 l did my Level ll CASI snowboard instructor's course. l asked if l could do the first one on a carving board. The evaluator looked at me with an expression on his face that said "shall l just fail you now?"

l had to drag myself kicking and screaming to the courses in soft boots... and hated it. l don't know how or why l passed... must have been the fat cheque(^_-)

Anyway... l never actually spent any time professionally teaching because l didn't want to be in soft boots. l did, however, teach several of my friends how to carve deep trenches and roam off piste in their hard boots as well. lt worked out fine since l never had any desire to ride the half pipe, park or backwards. l still don't.

l am a skier first. l worked as a ski instructor in Europe(Chatel, Les Trois Vallees, Val d'Isere) for 4 years and in Canada for two. l like carving. l like hard boots. l like control at speed. And... l like powder and bumps and everything else. l don't do jumps, l don't ride twin tips and l am not into tricks.

I am not rich, either. Yes... l have bought RC10's and Sidewinders... but they are my first winter sport equipment purchase since l bought modern shaped, carving oriented all-mountain skis in the winter of 2006-2007. I am also introducing my wife to the sport of snowboard carving this year and doing my best to stretch my finances so that she has good gear... some new and some used. Plus.... we are going home to Canada for 3 weeks to Canada which will take a big bite out of my wallet. Kindergarden teachers are not millionaires...LOL!

Anyway.... this is not necessary info.... but at least you know where l am coming from. l want the best gear to use for a long long time and that's why l decided on the boots and bindings l did. l am a carver first... but will NOT be contained to the piste. l was dropping into 50 degree couloirs in Tignes on my CON when l was young and stupid.... and lived to tell about it. lf l have to compromise in one direction it will be towards freestyle.

l am addicted to G force! But... when the powder is as deep as l am tall... l don't want to be on the groomers all day. That's why l am trying to come up with a wicked carving board that CAN go out of bounds, so to speak.

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Post by Flywalker » Thursday 4 November 2010, 4:59

Starikashka....

Thank you (^_^)

And you are absolutely right. l need an education in metal. l am worried about bending a metal board in bumps or unpredictable off piste situations.

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Post by philwi » Thursday 4 November 2010, 18:09

Flywalker wrote:l want to buy Prior because l am Canadian. l am a carver first... but love to go off piste. l live in northern Japan and we receive huge amounts of snow.
I'm from the "you need two boards" school, but then I'm either riding heli/cat powder or I'm riding at resorts, so that's about as much contrast as you can get. In my opinion piste boards are fundamentally different in construction from Powder boards; I certainly ride them radically differently (albeit with the same bindings and hard boots). It's just a different deal. Maybe you can find something to do both, but that sounds worryingly like a compromise.

If you're looking at Prior then I'd just rock up there and borrow something from them, and then decide what you want. They do demos and they have a pile of boards with minor defects you can buy cheaply.

Or buy a sexy new school race board with metal bits in it, and then pick up a cheap Fish or equivalent for pennies when you're in BC. You can get powder boards at huge discount if you look around. I think I paid $90 for my second-quality Fish.

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Post by WinterGold » Thursday 4 November 2010, 18:40

Flywalker, when I was talking about freeride boards or pintails I assumed that you would use them with hardboots. The softboots I just put in at the end as a bonus tip :wink: ...

If you know that you hate softboots then this is no option for you.

But instead of going the compromise route I second philwi´s suggestion. Freeride boards are very cheap to get second hand.
This would leave you the freedom to go with a full on carving board.

For the metal issue - I have been on a lot of different metal boards and never had any issues. Performance is amazing! But then I´m not an EC guy ...

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Post by Zanci » Thursday 4 November 2010, 21:18

WinterGold wrote:For the metal issue - I have been on a lot of different metal boards and never had any issues. Performance is amazing! But then I´m not an EC guy ...
I can EC and race on my 185 sense/sg so I prefer a full race board :)

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Post by fivat » Friday 5 November 2010, 0:50

@Zanci: ... and we can race with a Swoard Exremecarver too (as our rider Antoine does). :tongue: ;-)

But sorry a race board is not an EC board, as well as not a freeride board. The word EC is overused (and also recently used by some brands for marketing purpose) when people are just talking about "carving hard", or "carving aggressive with some inclination", or "carving in counter-rotation with the hand touching the snow".

The word "extremecarving" was invented in this Web site almost 9 years ago (well, not the words "extreme" and "carving") to give a name to the recognizable Swoard style described here in details (wide boards + lower angle bindings + flat bindings + modified boots + rotation technique + push-pull + steep slopes + fully laid and linked turns, etc.). The word "extremecarving" was criticized at start but now we see "EC" everywhere. Maybe we should write "Swoard-EC" to make a difference and a comeback to the original definition.

More info in the FAQ and here.

@Flywalker: it must be difficult for you now when you read all these replies. 8O You probably get the feeling that you can buy any board to make everything. Well, it depends on what you want to do well with ease, and on what terrain or slopes you are mainly riding (for example the metal boards have been reported as disappointing for EC on steep slopes). That’s why you should have at least 2 boards in your quiver, in my humble opinion.

Patrice Fivat

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Post by Transistor Rhythm » Friday 5 November 2010, 9:39

Alex wrote:
Arnaud wrote:RC10 should be easily tunable because the base looks good. Maybe in the next future I will have a look on RC10 to check how we can improve this boots for EC ...
Stay tuned :wink:
I've completely tuned the UPZ ATB...cutting the shell to achieve forward and backward flex movements. As soon as possible I'll put a description with pictures :wink:
That would be great!
Fridgecarver

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Post by Flywalker » Saturday 6 November 2010, 0:30

Monsieur Fivat et tous...

Thank you for your posts. l have been resisting the idea of having two boards... however l may be weakening in my stubbornness. There is the possibility of a Dynastar 3800 163cm freeride board coming my way for a very reasonable amount of beer tokens. l have old Burton race plates that l can throw on which will complete that package.

So.... onwards to carving! FLC or WCRM? Definitely wide version. 163 or 169? l must be honest.... it is highly unlikely that l will stay on the groomers 100% of the time with whatever board l choose. l have no experience with metal or these new school shapes. Apparently the FLC is a little easier to ride...?... however faster on the exit due to taper and slightly rockered tail? WCRM will want to hook uphill?

l would love to test both but l live in Japan and will be going home to Calgary for the holidays, not Vancouver. Although l will be in Vancouver for a few days at the end of my trip, Prior needs about 10 days to make a board by which time l will be back in Japan. They do not have any FLC's in stock to buy off the rack and only one second quality WCRM w 163 in stock at the moment.

I am 177cm tall and around 76kgs. Size 27 RC10's starting this year.

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