bootflex by cutting plastic
Moderators: fivat, rilliet, Arnaud, nils
bootflex by cutting plastic
I ride a raichle AF 600 with bts-system (yellow springs). After last seazon I wanted to buy even softer springs.
At home I tried the system without springs and then I noticed that the plastic of the boots stopped the motion of the flex so I presume that a softer spring will not help.
Only solution is cutting the plastic? And where? Anyone has experience with an AF 600? Could you let me see some pictures of the result cause I don't want to mess up my boots.
I have an extra thermofit innerboot. Could this give already more flex?
At home I tried the system without springs and then I noticed that the plastic of the boots stopped the motion of the flex so I presume that a softer spring will not help.
Only solution is cutting the plastic? And where? Anyone has experience with an AF 600? Could you let me see some pictures of the result cause I don't want to mess up my boots.
I have an extra thermofit innerboot. Could this give already more flex?
Swoard 2D 168H #13, f2 race titanium, raichle AF600 ACSS, Northwave .900
INDY
Some guys in the french forum cut their INDY's.
viewtopic.php?t=2631&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15
and from a dutchy, Eric
viewtopic.php?p=23754&highlight=#23754
viewtopic.php?t=2631&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15
and from a dutchy, Eric
viewtopic.php?p=23754&highlight=#23754
- leeho730
- Rank 4
- Posts: 90
- Joined: Thursday 26 July 2007, 2:39
- Location: Freaking Australia, in the middle of desert
One of the guys at Excarving.com posted his modification of AF600.
http://www.excarving.com/jaryu/jaqna_v. ... ontact=yes
(Note: if I were him, I would've created a hole above the cut he made on heel part of the upper shell so that the crack would not spread)
http://www.excarving.com/jaryu/jaqna_v. ... ontact=yes
(Note: if I were him, I would've created a hole above the cut he made on heel part of the upper shell so that the crack would not spread)
Swoard 168M&S / Dual 158
TD3SW /F2 / Ibex
Stratos / RC10 / T700
TD3SW /F2 / Ibex
Stratos / RC10 / T700
- starikashka
- Rank 5
- Posts: 963
- Joined: Friday 29 February 2008, 20:07
- Location: Russia
- Contact:
Re: bootflex by cutting plastic
Erik, are you sure that this will make a difference? My tip would be not bother yourself with boots cutting, better to force your legs bend properly...Do not get yourself into position of the guy who can`t dance and cuts off his balls in hope that this makes him a good dancererik wrote:I ride a raichle AF 600 with bts-system (yellow springs). After last seazon I wanted to buy even softer springs.
At home I tried the system without springs and then I noticed that the plastic of the boots stopped the motion of the flex so I presume that a softer spring will not help.
Only solution is cutting the plastic? And where? Anyone has experience with an AF 600? Could you let me see some pictures of the result cause I don't want to mess up my boots.
I have an extra thermofit innerboot. Could this give already more flex?


P.S. deeluxe boots are not the best availiable, but it works good enough for extremecarving. If you can specify what problem you want to fix it would help.
P.P.S - you can contact Denis memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=1601 who made Indy mod to improve forward lean ability.
i`m learning
I like the boots very much. Indeed not the best but as long as the Nortwaves are rare
they will do fine.
Problem is that when I try to bend my rear knee, it feels like I'm on the edge of the boot and that I'm still not deep enough.
If I see at pictures of P & J: there rear knee is almost bend in a 90 degre angle.
I can do that also but then my weight is to much on my rear foot.
So if the boot would flex more I think I will be able to bend the knee well and keep my weight between the bindings.
That's why I'm searching for a solution if there is one.
I must say that I'm a bit afraid that when the plastic has been cut, the problem will not been solved and the boots are f***ed up
When there is someone who has a good result with the cutting (of an AF 600) I perhaps would consider to try it also but after reading the replies (thanks to all but not convincing enough), I think I continue with the boots like they are and search for a solution in progressing my technique

Problem is that when I try to bend my rear knee, it feels like I'm on the edge of the boot and that I'm still not deep enough.
If I see at pictures of P & J: there rear knee is almost bend in a 90 degre angle.
I can do that also but then my weight is to much on my rear foot.
So if the boot would flex more I think I will be able to bend the knee well and keep my weight between the bindings.
That's why I'm searching for a solution if there is one.
I must say that I'm a bit afraid that when the plastic has been cut, the problem will not been solved and the boots are f***ed up

When there is someone who has a good result with the cutting (of an AF 600) I perhaps would consider to try it also but after reading the replies (thanks to all but not convincing enough), I think I continue with the boots like they are and search for a solution in progressing my technique

Swoard 2D 168H #13, f2 race titanium, raichle AF600 ACSS, Northwave .900
A good result with the cutting ? You can cut the boots in very small pieces like this :
, then buy Head Stratos
I stopped "research"
on this brand since a while. E_wi's approach looks nice (Hans link)




More seriously, you understand perfectly a key point for extremecarving. Flex and weight balancing ...Erik wrote:Problem is that when I try to bend my rear knee, it feels like I'm on the edge of the boot and that I'm still not deep enough ... I can do that also but then my weight is to much on my rear foot.
So if the boot would flex more I think I will be able to bend the knee well and keep my weight between the bindings ...
Not so easy to improve with Raichle. Problem is linked with boot design : ankle axis position, shell and cuff shapes, ...Erik wrote:I noticed that the plastic of the boots stopped the motion of the flex so I presume that a softer spring will not help.
I stopped "research"

Swoard EC Pro2 168H - Swoard EC12 Boots - Gen5 168H - Stoke 162 M
- Transistor Rhythm
- Rank 5
- Posts: 302
- Joined: Monday 10 March 2008, 9:46
- Location: Eindhoven, The Netherlands
So now everyone will be killing eachother for Head Stratos as well as Northwaves in the near future, since no Head Stratos are made anymore?Arnaud wrote:Not so easy to improve with Raichle. Problem is linked with boot design : ankle axis position, shell and cuff shapes, ...
I stopped "research"on this brand since a while. E_wi's approach looks nice (Hans link)
- Transistor Rhythm
- Rank 5
- Posts: 302
- Joined: Monday 10 March 2008, 9:46
- Location: Eindhoven, The Netherlands
That's great news for me!Hans wrote:You can still buy Head boots with Blue Tomato (09/10 model)Transistor Rhythm wrote:So now everyone will be killing eachother for Head Stratos as well as Northwaves in the near future, since no Head Stratos are made anymore?

Head Stratos Pro always seem to appear without a forehand warning. Everybody assumed they had stopped making them.
Hey Arnaud, it's a good idea: I'll cut the raichles into xtc-pills (like you showed in the picture
) and then I think I'll have enough money to start the new production of Northwaves
Problem solved
I had a good teacher (you!)
previous ECS. So if we meet again next januari, you now that I'm even better then it looks
the boots are the enemy 



I had a good teacher (you!)



Swoard 2D 168H #13, f2 race titanium, raichle AF600 ACSS, Northwave .900
- starikashka
- Rank 5
- Posts: 963
- Joined: Friday 29 February 2008, 20:07
- Location: Russia
- Contact: