Cracked boot, plastic welding?
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- Simon
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Cracked boot, plastic welding?
Hello
I know it’s summer, but I need your help!
The last day of my season on the Pitztal glacier in May was too much for my Indy. The shell of my rear boot cracked just above the heel. The crack is about 5 cm long and I did not notice anything on riding!
Now I had the idea to weld the plastic. The problem is, I don’t know the sort of boot plastic, is it PE, PA, PU or something else? I couldn’t find any indications like on automotive plastics.
Has anybody already done this or can recommend a company for plastic welding?
Yes, new ones are already in stock, but I'd like to try to repair this crack!
Thanks
Simon
I know it’s summer, but I need your help!
The last day of my season on the Pitztal glacier in May was too much for my Indy. The shell of my rear boot cracked just above the heel. The crack is about 5 cm long and I did not notice anything on riding!
Now I had the idea to weld the plastic. The problem is, I don’t know the sort of boot plastic, is it PE, PA, PU or something else? I couldn’t find any indications like on automotive plastics.
Has anybody already done this or can recommend a company for plastic welding?
Yes, new ones are already in stock, but I'd like to try to repair this crack!
Thanks
Simon
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- Cracked Indy.jpg (110.88 KiB) Viewed 10598 times
- starikashka
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I agree with the others - new boots
The area where there is the crack is where the binding is used to much effort for repair.
Yes you can welded plastic but not in an area like this , where strengh is so high like on this boots.
Never see cracks like this, did you have made a big jump ........
Have you uprated binding ( hell cup home made ) generally it is the binding who broke, not the boots !
The area where there is the crack is where the binding is used to much effort for repair.
Yes you can welded plastic but not in an area like this , where strengh is so high like on this boots.
Never see cracks like this, did you have made a big jump ........
Have you uprated binding ( hell cup home made ) generally it is the binding who broke, not the boots !
Sticks are for looser , born to be a snowboarder
- starikashka
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Another way
if crack is not seriously...
you can choice another way to fix.
Change to INTEC HEEL ADAPTER and use intec binding.
heel is fix with screw from sole, maybe....
you can choice another way to fix.
Change to INTEC HEEL ADAPTER and use intec binding.
heel is fix with screw from sole, maybe....
SWOARD168M
Very nice... crack of coursestarikashka wrote:i have seen such crack before
I tried to find a way to weld / bond / whatever something on an old pair of Northwave. I had some support from plastics experts like my professor in this subject. Resut of our research was, that there are many ways to fix plastic parts... but almost none to make it last under load.
Get a new one.
skywalker
free extreme carving
- starikashka
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Re: Another way
if crack not get to the sole this is possible, but in this particular case i would worry about quality of plastic itself. This lady on the picture above just about 60 kg weght, I know many riders about 100 kg who use regular plate bindings and do not broke that part For new boots intec is the option.Katsunori wrote:if crack is not seriously...
you can choice another way to fix.
Change to INTEC HEEL ADAPTER and use intec binding.
heel is fix with screw from sole, maybe....
i`m learning
- Alex
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there is no way to preserve stressed element for ever
it's normal change board, bindings, gloves and boots after some seasons, and for this boots its time to get a rest
Intec is not the best option for extreme carving, and usually the boots don't brake but become softer or the plastic brake where there is friction!
at the end if you decide to get another pair of deeluxe you will have one of reserve
it's normal change board, bindings, gloves and boots after some seasons, and for this boots its time to get a rest
Intec is not the best option for extreme carving, and usually the boots don't brake but become softer or the plastic brake where there is friction!
at the end if you decide to get another pair of deeluxe you will have one of reserve
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UPZ RC10, UPZ ATB
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- starikashka
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- Alex
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yes of course...it's possible do ec turns with a soft board and soft boots, but to best handle all situation and the steeper slopes it's better use the tricks and the knowledge contained herestarikashka wrote:it is not preventing to do EC turnsAlex wrote: Intec is not the best option for extreme carving
Swoard PRO 168M 00001, 3G 168H
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UPZ RC10, UPZ ATB
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- starikashka
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- Simon
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Thanks for the answers, even I did not hear what I liked to hear!
At least I'm not the only one
Yes, normally the binding is the weakest part in the system, but since I use the Ibex instead F2, this problem is solved.
I used the boot for about 130 days in 3 years. I did not notice the crack while riding. It must be happened while carving very deep in the knees on really icy snow. I did not make some big jumps nor I had a serious crash.
Intec is not a solution, the crack affects also the intec nuts and I prefere bail bindings because of there lateral flexiblity.
The crack is very close the sole fins inside of the boot. If plastic welding would work, there is enough space to add some reinforcements.
@ skywalker: Do you remember the plastic type of the NW boot?
@ starikashka: How did you mange to brake the boot, the boot does not look not very used? Was it the rear foot too? Did you get a replacement?
I will have a look for an other damaged boot to have some material to try plastic welding even you all do not recommend
Simon
At least I'm not the only one
Yes, normally the binding is the weakest part in the system, but since I use the Ibex instead F2, this problem is solved.
I used the boot for about 130 days in 3 years. I did not notice the crack while riding. It must be happened while carving very deep in the knees on really icy snow. I did not make some big jumps nor I had a serious crash.
Intec is not a solution, the crack affects also the intec nuts and I prefere bail bindings because of there lateral flexiblity.
The crack is very close the sole fins inside of the boot. If plastic welding would work, there is enough space to add some reinforcements.
@ skywalker: Do you remember the plastic type of the NW boot?
@ starikashka: How did you mange to brake the boot, the boot does not look not very used? Was it the rear foot too? Did you get a replacement?
I will have a look for an other damaged boot to have some material to try plastic welding even you all do not recommend
Simon
- starikashka
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