A little boot theory

[cmachine]

Hi all

Am I right with these statements?

1) The Northwave boot of J&P has almost no forward lean in the ankle.

2) In J&P’s videos I have seen the following for the transition part of the turn (pull phase): The front leg is flexed in the knee but not in the ankle part. The rear leg is flexed in the knee and also flexed in the ankle part.

3) To be able to do a proper backside turn, it is necessary not to flex the ankle of the front foot. This requires a boot with almost no forward lean.

I think my boot has to much forward lean. Therefore I do not feel comfortable on the board “I am locked in my boots”.
When I try to lay down on backside, the edge skids. I think this is because the calf pressure against the boot is to high and the board looses grip (the boot blocks to the rear because of the forward lean). 2 Years ago I had a boot with more flex to the back and I remember I felt much more comfortable on the board (but I had no SWOARD then)
If the binding angles are higher, it is a bit easier, because pressure is more left/right instead of heel/toe. à But the goal must not be to increase the binding angles too much. Better is to reduce the forward lean in the boot.


Is the Northwave boot still available somewhere?


What do you mean


Stay Deeeeeeeeep
Olaf

[pokkis]

You can use also 700's boots with extended adjustment srew thread as instructed here earlier. I did that modification with softer springs, results were extremely good ones.

[cmachine]

Hi Pokkis

Thanks for the hint. I already tried both (extended adjustment srew thread and softer spings as instructed here earlier) with my deluxe suzuka. I think it is still too less.
Before I owned a Raichle 124 (one of the first models produced) that gave me more flexibility to the rear.

But I'm interestet if you (and the others) agree with my statements above.

Regards
Olaf

[rilliet]

Hi Olaf,

It's true that we have the rear ankle more flexed than the front one. But the reason is the binding settings, not the boots adjustments. Our both boots have the same settings: same forward lean and same stiffness.

The Northwave boots have a two main springs: one for the forward flex (Patrice and I have modifiate with three) and one, shorter, for a short backward flex. See the Northwave Photo here: https://www.extremecarving.com/tech/mat.html

3) To be able to do a proper backside turn, it is necessary not to flex the ankle of the front foot. This requires a boot with almost no forward lean.

Both boots should have a moderate forward lean (the same on both). It's impossible to give an accurate mesurement, but you can make a good estimation so:
If your tighs are quickly exhausted (as you said: “I am locked in my boots”), you have too much forward lean.
If you feel too much on the back on the board and feel it difficult to bend your knees, then you have not enough.

On www.ebay.de
Write directly to Northwave, they still have some of them.

Jacques

[cmachine]

Hi all

Jacques:

If your tighs are quickly exhausted (as you said: “I am locked in my boots”), you have too much forward lean.

Jacques, you were right, there was too much forward lean!

I'm back with a new spring system that gives me more flex:



The spring system has been modified due to gain more and easier displacement for forward and backward lean.
A softer and longer spring and the new nut reach the forward lean flexibility. The full backward flexibility is given by new brass tubing without block, a cut cover and the new nut. In order to decrease the frictional resistance, the brass tubing has a diameter of only 10mm (the original has 12mm) and the edges of the new nut are deburred.
The figure on the left shows the modified spring system with a medium spring at the Suzuka. The figure on the right shows the original spring at the Indy. The spring system originally comes from the Indy boot, but an installation at the Suzuka is possible.

What is still missing is a mechanism to adjust the lateral flex. The boot is still too stiff in lateral direction.

Owners of former Raichle models should keep them and not change to one of these two deeluxe models!



I tested my modification this week in sölden (austria) and I had a much better feeling in the backside turn :




Regards & Stay Deep
Olaf

[fivat]

Excellent job and excellent picture Olaf!

Patrice Fivat

[cmachine]

Thanks Patrice

Due to best snow conditions on wednesday, we had an easy game to make good pictures

Olaf

[sorro]

Hi Olaf,

You made a great job on the RAB modification , I would like to make quite the same on mine, even if I'm not sure to be able to do it as good as you

Just a question about the brass tubing modification: how did you make that? Did you do it yourself (in that case I'm in a bad shape ) or did you buy it (in that case: where?)

Thanks a lot.

[Hans]

Sorro, you can find the answere at this thread.
viewtopic.php?t=175&highlight=soft+spring+raichle

Greets, Hans.

[sorro]

Thanks Hans but I have already seen this post.

My question is not concerning the spring itself but the brass tubing that Olaf modified too: thinner, longer and without block (nut).

[harald]

Hi,
I have read the interesting discussions on springs and boot modification. Late season this year I bought a pair of UPS RVS boots. Does anybody have experience with these boots and how to best set and adjust them?

[cmachine]

hi sorro

sorry for the late answer but i'm here in italy for some carves.

the brass tubing: this is very easy done: just buy a tube made of brass and cut it to 5 or 6 cm. on the market there are tubes available with the measurements given in the foto. (10mm outer diameter, 8mm inner diameter). then you bring the tube over the screw. this needs some force, but you can use the nut and 'screw' the tube to the very top of the screw. this really needs some force, because the screw has a little arc at the end. once the tube is on the screw, it holds very strong.

try to buy the tube in a home market or in at a mechanical garage.

if you can't find anything in france then write me an email with your adress and i will send you 2 tubes.

important: you have to try different springs until you find the one that fits best for you.

best regs
olaf

[sorro]

Thanks a lot for your feedbacks Olaf it's very helpful!!
So, I'm going to look for those brass tubes...

For the springs I have booked several to make some tests.

Enjoy your Xmas full of Xtrem turns .....

[Hans]

Hello, guys, just need some advice about springs/AF700

I just modified my AF 700. I have made some new threads to the Raichle Accelerator Box. So I can stand up a little more, just more easy going for a nearly fourty year old to carve now. Is it advisible to put some other springs in the RAB too?? I know Olaf used other springs too, but that was on the Suzuka and the Indy I think. Like to hear from any one who has some experiences with changing springs on the Raichle AF 700.
I am using the original silver/gold ones now.Thanks in advance for your advice.

Greets, Hans.

[cmachine]

...that was on the Suzuka and the Indy I think. Like to hear from any one who has some experiences with changing springs on the Raichle AF 700.
I am using the original silver/gold ones now.
Greets, Hans.

Hi Hans

I think the AF700 Springsystem and the Indy-System are identical!

The "the original silver/gold" you use are also the same at the Indy (and were too hard for mee.

Stay Deep
Olaf