Heelside turn problem
Moderators: fivat, rilliet, Arnaud, nils
Heelside turn problem
Hello~~~I'm not new to this site but this is my first post......
anyway, I have to thank EC.com for good technique because
I've enjoyed my first EC turn last year.....
But I still have problems with my heel side turn.....
when I begin a turn, my tail pops out to the fall line....
maybe because of my angles ( F:63 R:60)becasue i have 295 feetsize...
or my stance width(18 inches)
I weight 200pound(90kg+) 182cm tall
burton UP 168, Physics SI, Wind
what do you think the problems are?????my angle????
give me some suggestions for this prob'
thankU4reading.....
anyway, I have to thank EC.com for good technique because
I've enjoyed my first EC turn last year.....
But I still have problems with my heel side turn.....
when I begin a turn, my tail pops out to the fall line....
maybe because of my angles ( F:63 R:60)becasue i have 295 feetsize...
or my stance width(18 inches)
I weight 200pound(90kg+) 182cm tall
burton UP 168, Physics SI, Wind
what do you think the problems are?????my angle????
give me some suggestions for this prob'
thankU4reading.....
- rilliet
- Swoard & EC founder
- Posts: 714
- Joined: Tuesday 26 March 2002, 10:39
- Location: Lausanne, Switzerland
- Contact:
Hi Linus,
- Too much angulation (as you do have).
- Binding setback.
- Bad board construction.
- Riders position too much on the back.
- Bad edges sharpening.
- Too stiff boots (you can't go forward enough with your hips).
Now you have good tests to do, he, he...
If it still doesn't work after that, show us a short video.
Jacques
This current problem may have several causes:But I still have problems with my heel side turn.....
when I begin a turn, my tail pops out to the fall line....
- Too much angulation (as you do have).
- Binding setback.
- Bad board construction.
- Riders position too much on the back.
- Bad edges sharpening.
- Too stiff boots (you can't go forward enough with your hips).
Now you have good tests to do, he, he...
If it still doesn't work after that, show us a short video.
Jacques
Your settings may not be optimal, but they won't cause your tail to pop out. Ten to one that it is simply a technique problem. The most probable cause is counter rotation. Make sure you keep your body facing towards the nose of your board all the way through te turn, as you can see in the movies on this site. Pushing your rear knee towards the slope (also inward in a backside turn) will help too in the beginning.
Tim Westphal
Carve diem!
Carve diem!
thx tim....
maybe you R rite.....
but i do face foward enough though....
since i rode my board 30 back with stiff angle,
i think i couldn't put enough pressure to my
back side edge.
also....i rode 16" stance width....(don't know y.... )
that also might be it....i'm going for first ride of this season
this weekend
i'll be riding 18"(45.72cm) stance width with
F:57 R:51..... with my binding on middle of my board....no more 30 back
anybody think i need more adjustments????(other than longer board)
thx everybody!!!!
maybe you R rite.....
but i do face foward enough though....
since i rode my board 30 back with stiff angle,
i think i couldn't put enough pressure to my
back side edge.
also....i rode 16" stance width....(don't know y.... )
that also might be it....i'm going for first ride of this season
this weekend
i'll be riding 18"(45.72cm) stance width with
F:57 R:51..... with my binding on middle of my board....no more 30 back
anybody think i need more adjustments????(other than longer board)
thx everybody!!!!
I'm with Tim on this one.
When your back rail breaks out in the second half of your carve, it's mostly due to 1 of 2 reasons:
-1-Counter-rotation
-2-Too fast rotation
To make a nice carve, you need an even pressure distribution over the whole arch. You must think of it as if you have a certain amount of "rotation" in stock at the beginning of the curve, and you must distribute it in an even way over the whole curve.
Counter-rotation
With counter-rotation, you "kick" the board around the corner.
Too fast rotation
During the carve, you must turn your upper body from squared (start turn) to nose-facing (end). And this you must do in a continuous movement. If you use up all of your "rotation in stock" in 75% percent of the arch, you have a problem with balance at the end of the turn. No rotation left to drive the carve.
When your back rail breaks out in the second half of your carve, it's mostly due to 1 of 2 reasons:
-1-Counter-rotation
-2-Too fast rotation
To make a nice carve, you need an even pressure distribution over the whole arch. You must think of it as if you have a certain amount of "rotation" in stock at the beginning of the curve, and you must distribute it in an even way over the whole curve.
Counter-rotation
With counter-rotation, you "kick" the board around the corner.
Too fast rotation
During the carve, you must turn your upper body from squared (start turn) to nose-facing (end). And this you must do in a continuous movement. If you use up all of your "rotation in stock" in 75% percent of the arch, you have a problem with balance at the end of the turn. No rotation left to drive the carve.
edge change
Another thing I can think of is that you don't edge enough a the start of the turn. Some people are a bit hesitant to throw themselves into a backside, and the result is that they don't tilt the board on the edge enough, and consequently the whole turn is lousy.
A way to practice this is to start with very small turns, where you just quickly switch board from edge to edge, and then slowly increase the size of the turns, but maintain the quick edge change. This works really well on a slope that gradually gets steeper.
The stance you got now is certainly not wrong (though it might not be perfect yet) so that won't be the problem. the board is fine too, and I would recommend sorting the problem out on this board, cause on a longer board you will most probably have the same problem, but even more and it will be more difficult to correct. Small sidecut radius boards are much more forgiving for technique flaws.
Tim
A way to practice this is to start with very small turns, where you just quickly switch board from edge to edge, and then slowly increase the size of the turns, but maintain the quick edge change. This works really well on a slope that gradually gets steeper.
The stance you got now is certainly not wrong (though it might not be perfect yet) so that won't be the problem. the board is fine too, and I would recommend sorting the problem out on this board, cause on a longer board you will most probably have the same problem, but even more and it will be more difficult to correct. Small sidecut radius boards are much more forgiving for technique flaws.
Tim
Tim Westphal
Carve diem!
Carve diem!
Heelside
Linus:
I had big problems with heelside, and if I had written a post about what my problem was, I would have written what you did. Turns out my problem was that I was trying too hard, and over rotating the turns, in effect trying to make the turn too sharply.
When I let the board run its own line, I found I solve the problem. In fact I got over it mostly doing straight line runs, and simply pushing the board out heelside so that it jumped on its edge, but didn't really turn. I learned the feel from that, then started to put more and more pressure on the edge to make the degree of the turn change. That feeling you know on the front side of being on the edge and running the board along its own line, I found by starting with wider turns.
Of course watching the awesome videos here at EC helped alot too. The technique articles are always helpful here too. Ok, just cause that's the greatest smiley on the net...
I sugest you try some straight line runs with very wide and soft turns concentrating on getting on the edge without really trying to turn. That's how I found the heelside rail.
I had big problems with heelside, and if I had written a post about what my problem was, I would have written what you did. Turns out my problem was that I was trying too hard, and over rotating the turns, in effect trying to make the turn too sharply.
When I let the board run its own line, I found I solve the problem. In fact I got over it mostly doing straight line runs, and simply pushing the board out heelside so that it jumped on its edge, but didn't really turn. I learned the feel from that, then started to put more and more pressure on the edge to make the degree of the turn change. That feeling you know on the front side of being on the edge and running the board along its own line, I found by starting with wider turns.
Of course watching the awesome videos here at EC helped alot too. The technique articles are always helpful here too. Ok, just cause that's the greatest smiley on the net...
I sugest you try some straight line runs with very wide and soft turns concentrating on getting on the edge without really trying to turn. That's how I found the heelside rail.
I was out today for first riding of the season....
i rode for 4 hours and i couldn't feel my leg so
i stopped riding and came back home...
I met experienced carvers on the resort and
they told me a lot about what i was doing wrong...
first....i put my rear arm behind me and that made my
heelside turn much terrible...
and also way too concentrate on my turn instead of
be confident and natural...
second....i use physics binding and it has 7 degree canting
and lift on rear foot.... but i have damn straight legs so i going to remove
that stupid pad and try....(thx to coiler website for the info)
i've noticed that F:57 R:51 angle, and increase in stancewidth
made my stance a lot more comfortable....
thx to all of you for advices.....
i rode for 4 hours and i couldn't feel my leg so
i stopped riding and came back home...
I met experienced carvers on the resort and
they told me a lot about what i was doing wrong...
first....i put my rear arm behind me and that made my
heelside turn much terrible...
and also way too concentrate on my turn instead of
be confident and natural...
second....i use physics binding and it has 7 degree canting
and lift on rear foot.... but i have damn straight legs so i going to remove
that stupid pad and try....(thx to coiler website for the info)
i've noticed that F:57 R:51 angle, and increase in stancewidth
made my stance a lot more comfortable....
thx to all of you for advices.....
Try to carve harder until my cheeks touch
the slopes
the slopes
-
- Rank 2
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Tuesday 8 October 2002, 23:07
- Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
stance width??
Can someone explain to me how to measure my stance width? All last season while I was learning I was moving my stance all over the board with various widths. I want to be able to compare my stance to others. Many thanks.
Eddie
Eddie
Tech Article
Hi Eddie
Check out this Tech Article at the Bomberonline web site:
http://www.bomberonline.com/Tech_Articl ... ckm12.html
I think it has the stance width information you are looking for.
Hope this helps
Rob
Check out this Tech Article at the Bomberonline web site:
http://www.bomberonline.com/Tech_Articl ... ckm12.html
I think it has the stance width information you are looking for.
Hope this helps
Rob
-
- Rank 2
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Tuesday 8 October 2002, 23:07
- Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Thanks for the quick response. I know that the wider you are the more stable the board is but I was feeling uncomfortable and moved my feet closer together the other day. I guess it is a matter of preference. For me it seems that farther the feet are apart, the harder it is to feel the heelside edge work as one solid edge.
Eddie
Eddie
Stance Closer
Hi Eddie
[I guess it is a matter of preference.]
When I first tried the flat stance, recommended on the EC site, I also found it very uncomfortable. For me my front thigh felt like is was on fire ... with pain! Moving the stance a few mm or cm closer fixed everything for me, now I love the flat stance. I kinda think that shoulder width is a good starting point, but your legs inseam length should also be taken into account.
Example
If you have long legs and narrow shoulders, you probably can handle a wider stance. If you have short legs and wide shoulders, maybe a smaller stance width is better.
I think you are right, stance width is a personal thing.
You just have to keep testing until you find what is right for you.
Rob
[I guess it is a matter of preference.]
When I first tried the flat stance, recommended on the EC site, I also found it very uncomfortable. For me my front thigh felt like is was on fire ... with pain! Moving the stance a few mm or cm closer fixed everything for me, now I love the flat stance. I kinda think that shoulder width is a good starting point, but your legs inseam length should also be taken into account.
Example
If you have long legs and narrow shoulders, you probably can handle a wider stance. If you have short legs and wide shoulders, maybe a smaller stance width is better.
I think you are right, stance width is a personal thing.
You just have to keep testing until you find what is right for you.
Rob
.6 x Your Inseam=Stance width
Hi Nate
I punched in the numbers, worked for me as well .... neat!!
Thanks
Rob
I punched in the numbers, worked for me as well .... neat!!
Thanks
Rob