Boot flex
Moderators: fivat, rilliet, Arnaud, nils
Boot flex
Just a quick question on putting springs on the the UPZ RC-10...
For EC-style, is it best to have a lot of flex on both boots?? I was running in fatigue issues, and a Pure-boarding-style hardbooter friend of mine commented that the front foot in their style is far more rigid.
I did change my boots to a smaller size 11 from 11.5inner/12shell, and things feel a bit better (although not been on snow yet).
I just wanted to know if there was some tuning on the springs to avoid fatigue, and what people do on their front foot.
cheers,
Slayer
For EC-style, is it best to have a lot of flex on both boots?? I was running in fatigue issues, and a Pure-boarding-style hardbooter friend of mine commented that the front foot in their style is far more rigid.
I did change my boots to a smaller size 11 from 11.5inner/12shell, and things feel a bit better (although not been on snow yet).
I just wanted to know if there was some tuning on the springs to avoid fatigue, and what people do on their front foot.
cheers,
Slayer
Soft: Dual 175, Burton Driver-X, Flux CV
Hard: Gen4 175M, UPZ RC10, F2 Race Titanium
Hard: Gen4 175M, UPZ RC10, F2 Race Titanium
Re: Boot flex
Hello,
Front flex is essential on the rear foot to feel comfortable and to achieve correct push-pull moves.
For the front shoe, it can be a little bit stiffer for high speeds, but normally the same setup on the two shoes works perfectly.
Front flex is essential on the rear foot to feel comfortable and to achieve correct push-pull moves.
For the front shoe, it can be a little bit stiffer for high speeds, but normally the same setup on the two shoes works perfectly.
EC pro 175M, Gen 4 175 M, Stoke, EC12, Swell Panik Magistral 185 + flow
- fivat
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Re: Boot flex
Jacques and I are riding with same setup on both feet: right and left identical. All the team too I guess.
Being well "centered" on the board and with same stiffness on both boots permit good stability front / rear in carving and EC.
In the nineties we often saw people with different tongues on their hard boots for different stiffnesses left / right (stiffer on front foot). This is past.
Same with the cantings or pads on bindings which we have removed long time ago. See here.
Patrice Fivat
Being well "centered" on the board and with same stiffness on both boots permit good stability front / rear in carving and EC.
In the nineties we often saw people with different tongues on their hard boots for different stiffnesses left / right (stiffer on front foot). This is past.
Same with the cantings or pads on bindings which we have removed long time ago. See here.
Patrice Fivat
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Re: Boot flex
Hello,
I ride with both my boots with the same setup.
However some say that I could make another setup, making my front boot more straightened and back foot more bent. I believe that this would not help me.
This would cause me to be set up in my rotated (in the direction to the backside turn so in fact counter-rotated to the frontside turn) position on my frontside turn which I believe would kill the flexibility in this turn.
So one can set up a straightened front foot and over bent back foot. This will add artificial rotation to our position. I still think that it can be useful with no-rotational low in a turn kind of carving or when you are racing... In such a case we would also add a raise lift below our front foot toes and below our rear foot heel or/and setup the springs unequally .
So yes, you can set things this way but regarding ExtremeCarving rotational technique this will just make you feel better in a backside turn (not necessarily ride better). When we are riding our technique we don't get frozen in one and only perfect position. This is why we need to have different possibilities
Assuming:
- we don't use lifts, because we change the hips rotation between the turns,
- we don't vary the springs setup, the springs are same for two boots, set up same way, same distances, same possibilities for both directions,
- we don't use canting, because the board bends so much during the turn, that our knees would stick together for sure,
- we use long travel springs to allow us to bend our legs extremely (the lower you are before the turn starts, the better) and those springs are rather soft because we want to dump as much terrain difficulties as possible.
Join my course and you will get your knowledge!
I ride with both my boots with the same setup.
However some say that I could make another setup, making my front boot more straightened and back foot more bent. I believe that this would not help me.
This would cause me to be set up in my rotated (in the direction to the backside turn so in fact counter-rotated to the frontside turn) position on my frontside turn which I believe would kill the flexibility in this turn.
So one can set up a straightened front foot and over bent back foot. This will add artificial rotation to our position. I still think that it can be useful with no-rotational low in a turn kind of carving or when you are racing... In such a case we would also add a raise lift below our front foot toes and below our rear foot heel or/and setup the springs unequally .
So yes, you can set things this way but regarding ExtremeCarving rotational technique this will just make you feel better in a backside turn (not necessarily ride better). When we are riding our technique we don't get frozen in one and only perfect position. This is why we need to have different possibilities
Assuming:
- we don't use lifts, because we change the hips rotation between the turns,
- we don't vary the springs setup, the springs are same for two boots, set up same way, same distances, same possibilities for both directions,
- we don't use canting, because the board bends so much during the turn, that our knees would stick together for sure,
- we use long travel springs to allow us to bend our legs extremely (the lower you are before the turn starts, the better) and those springs are rather soft because we want to dump as much terrain difficulties as possible.
Join my course and you will get your knowledge!
www.carvingskills.com
580km in 3 hours and 5 minutes completely legal!!! I love german highways!!!
580km in 3 hours and 5 minutes completely legal!!! I love german highways!!!
Re: Boot flex
Thanks for the replies, sorry I took so long to follow up - was in Mayrhofen for a week!
I took both my softboots and hardboots along with my Dual...in case the fatigue was too much.
To my surprise, with the smaller size, I didn't get as much as I expected, and from the start carving felt natural (I did replace the springs).
I would not say as comfortable as softies, and towards the end of the day I would have to keep tightening until I was on the last clasp on ALL clips, but I didn't switch back to softies all week! I guess i still need a custom liner, or some velcro base or something to add some thickness to the sole..
I would still say my heelside carve needs a lot of work, as I cannot get low enough unless I am travelling at high speed, and then the Dual want to carve too tight, and that gets tiring...
I took some advice from a friend and focussed on my upper body rotation, and that helped a lot. I still can't focus on push-pull during EC, I get it with 'normal carving' though
Conditions for EC were not there really, and i was riding with a large group whose main intention is speed, so I could feel the counter-rotation and other bad habits coming back a lot.
Would love to do the course, but I am based in Zurich region. I would try attend the Zinal meet, but its always at the end of Jan - my anniversary! So cannot make it.
cheers,
Slayer
I took both my softboots and hardboots along with my Dual...in case the fatigue was too much.
To my surprise, with the smaller size, I didn't get as much as I expected, and from the start carving felt natural (I did replace the springs).
I would not say as comfortable as softies, and towards the end of the day I would have to keep tightening until I was on the last clasp on ALL clips, but I didn't switch back to softies all week! I guess i still need a custom liner, or some velcro base or something to add some thickness to the sole..
I would still say my heelside carve needs a lot of work, as I cannot get low enough unless I am travelling at high speed, and then the Dual want to carve too tight, and that gets tiring...
I took some advice from a friend and focussed on my upper body rotation, and that helped a lot. I still can't focus on push-pull during EC, I get it with 'normal carving' though
Conditions for EC were not there really, and i was riding with a large group whose main intention is speed, so I could feel the counter-rotation and other bad habits coming back a lot.
Would love to do the course, but I am based in Zurich region. I would try attend the Zinal meet, but its always at the end of Jan - my anniversary! So cannot make it.
cheers,
Slayer
Soft: Dual 175, Burton Driver-X, Flux CV
Hard: Gen4 175M, UPZ RC10, F2 Race Titanium
Hard: Gen4 175M, UPZ RC10, F2 Race Titanium
- joemzl
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Re: Boot flex
What about Pila (Italy)?slayer wrote: I would try attend the Zinal meet, but its always at the end of Jan - my anniversary! So cannot make it.
Extreme Dreamer every night
Swoard Pro 175M +Race Ti Flex, Plasma CE185/17, Swoard Stoke 162M
Swoard Pro 175M +Race Ti Flex, Plasma CE185/17, Swoard Stoke 162M
Re: Boot flex
That might be a possibility although I might need to bring the wife and baby for a trip (so she can board also - she missed out so far this year, while I have been lucky getting the 'pass' already).
Soft: Dual 175, Burton Driver-X, Flux CV
Hard: Gen4 175M, UPZ RC10, F2 Race Titanium
Hard: Gen4 175M, UPZ RC10, F2 Race Titanium
Re: Boot flex
UPZ RC10 2015-2016 tuning
I have tuned my new RC10 bought this year and I am fully satisfied. Here are some pictures:
1. ACSS installed => Basics
2. Black tongue got thinner with cutter (take care to your fingers ! => Peronally I use these gloves : http://www.protection-des-mains.com/bou ... upure.html
3. there is an internal small tongle inside back of the shoes. I have cut a V shape and you get much flex doing that. once done you can see the 2 scrw heads from ACSS.
I will post pictures if I can (!)
I have tuned my new RC10 bought this year and I am fully satisfied. Here are some pictures:
1. ACSS installed => Basics
2. Black tongue got thinner with cutter (take care to your fingers ! => Peronally I use these gloves : http://www.protection-des-mains.com/bou ... upure.html
3. there is an internal small tongle inside back of the shoes. I have cut a V shape and you get much flex doing that. once done you can see the 2 scrw heads from ACSS.
I will post pictures if I can (!)
Freecarver since 1990 with Hot Revolution until 2014. (S)Now SWOARD.
Re: Boot flex
UPZ RC10 2015-2016 tuning
V shape inside the boot
V shape inside the boot
Freecarver since 1990 with Hot Revolution until 2014. (S)Now SWOARD.
Re: Boot flex
UPZ RC10 2015-2016 tuning
Black tongue thickness
Black tongue thickness
Freecarver since 1990 with Hot Revolution until 2014. (S)Now SWOARD.
Re: Boot flex
Thanks jfbo31. Was trying to work out exactly how you thinned the tongue....but in any case I got the red tongue and simply replaced it.
Soft: Dual 175, Burton Driver-X, Flux CV
Hard: Gen4 175M, UPZ RC10, F2 Race Titanium
Hard: Gen4 175M, UPZ RC10, F2 Race Titanium
Re: Boot flex
Is the difference between the red and black tongue that much in flex? (softer)slayer wrote:Thanks jfbo31. Was trying to work out exactly how you thinned the tongue....but in any case I got the red tongue and simply replaced it.
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Re: Boot flex
Red - crumb. Black - soft. It's position of 75 kg.Hans wrote:Is the difference between the red and black tongue that much in flex? (softer)
https://www.youtube.com/user/DonAntonioSPB
BRGDS, Anton
BRGDS, Anton
Re: Boot flex
Crumb means?
When I buckle it at the 3th position of the ratchet and fasten the topstrap, the black tongue is rather stiff.
When I buckle it at the 3th position of the ratchet and fasten the topstrap, the black tongue is rather stiff.