Korean binding
Moderators: fivat, rilliet, Arnaud, nils
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- Rank 4
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Tuesday 9 March 2004, 17:55
- Location: Harderwijk, Netherlands
Re: Korean binding
Nice bindings, I have seen them before at this website. What I like the most at this binding is that you can replace the bit above the hole where the Intecpins get in. Once they are totally worn out, you only have to replace that little steel plate above the holes. Some smart guys who figured this out.
Greets, Hans.
(they almost look like Catek's).
Greets, Hans.
(they almost look like Catek's).
- fivat
- Swoard & EC founder
- Posts: 3012
- Joined: Thursday 21 March 2002, 13:13
- Location: Geneva, Switzerland
- Contact:
Re: Korean binding
Looks very nice!
Advice for EC: choose the normal model (not the step-in), because:
1) you get more lateral flexibility
2) dampening is bad with the step-in system: metal on metal (heel part) !
Patrice Fivat
Advice for EC: choose the normal model (not the step-in), because:
1) you get more lateral flexibility
2) dampening is bad with the step-in system: metal on metal (heel part) !
Patrice Fivat
These are clearly best looking bindings on market today
and they look to be functioning too
Heel piece design is clear answer to avoid wear which is huge problem with som other aluminum bindings, they solved issue i raised long time ago on BombeOnLine
And best tyhing is that one never needs to replace that due it will hold wear of pin. Also please note even better thing, there are no screw holes under boot which would gather snow
I would go without hesitance wit step-in versions, cause metal to metal is not as such bad sign, flex and dampening can and should be solved otherwise than with flexing toe and heel pieces. SI will give ultimate control for all free carving freaks
I see only need for traditional bindings :
- those who have boots where no step ins are available
- top-level racers, cause they need all possible flex and damp due tracks they need to ride really sucks
and they look to be functioning too
Heel piece design is clear answer to avoid wear which is huge problem with som other aluminum bindings, they solved issue i raised long time ago on BombeOnLine
And best tyhing is that one never needs to replace that due it will hold wear of pin. Also please note even better thing, there are no screw holes under boot which would gather snow
I would go without hesitance wit step-in versions, cause metal to metal is not as such bad sign, flex and dampening can and should be solved otherwise than with flexing toe and heel pieces. SI will give ultimate control for all free carving freaks
I see only need for traditional bindings :
- those who have boots where no step ins are available
- top-level racers, cause they need all possible flex and damp due tracks they need to ride really sucks
- nils
- Swoard founder
- Posts: 3043
- Joined: Friday 22 March 2002, 19:22
- Location: Lyon, France - Swoard team
- Contact:
Not my kind
I prefer the smooth finish of the Bombers or Cateks > those korean bindings look like out of the CNC machine, and it looks too sharp edges to me too....
I also think the round part is a bit too wide to allow really good board bend... But this has to be tested of course!
n.
I also think the round part is a bit too wide to allow really good board bend... But this has to be tested of course!
n.
Currently F2 Titan Race SI and i dont see any difference to higher angles.
Ok, i'm cheating little bit at his phase of season, my angles are 50/55 and i might come 5 degrees down perhaps but let's see when more days go on slopes. For me these are pretty low cause on Burner i have 65/70 normally.
As said on my mail, those are only reason i see need for traditional ones. Everything else can and should be done by adjusting binding settings. But i agree EC guys on that if one is used to very sloppy setting it will take lots of before more rigid one starts to feel homy
Ok, i'm cheating little bit at his phase of season, my angles are 50/55 and i might come 5 degrees down perhaps but let's see when more days go on slopes. For me these are pretty low cause on Burner i have 65/70 normally.
As said on my mail, those are only reason i see need for traditional ones. Everything else can and should be done by adjusting binding settings. But i agree EC guys on that if one is used to very sloppy setting it will take lots of before more rigid one starts to feel homy
Katsunori,
Do you have an e-mail address of these guys? I have been looking at these bindings for a while and am interested to import them into Europe.
Thanks,
Arjan
Do you have an e-mail address of these guys? I have been looking at these bindings for a while and am interested to import them into Europe.
Thanks,
Arjan
Chillaxin - snowsports
www.chillaxin.nl
www.chillaxin.nl
English info
Ben , some links you can translate it by yourself!Benn wrote:Katsunori,
Could you translate specifications (size, weight, ...) and inform us of prices.
All info in English are welcome!
http://216.239.37.104/translate_c?hl=en ... uage_tools
Some interesting processing overhere, just down the page you get some processing.mov in your computerscreen, impressive!
http://www.snowboardshop.co.kr/s5-processing.htm
Greets, Hans.
If you look closely on the pictures, you can see a rubber ring underneath the base plate, so there is damping...
Chillaxin - snowsports
www.chillaxin.nl
www.chillaxin.nl