Trench Digger 3

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Freecarver
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Post by Freecarver » Thursday 6 November 2008, 19:39

pokkis wrote:Yo can also get new centerdisk and new elastomers for TD2's instead of suspesion kit :wink:
I had also my toughts related snow, which is already with TD2's pain.
You're absolutely right Pokkis,
I've complete forgotten about it.
Thanks to remind me :bravo:

codighel
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Post by codighel » Thursday 6 November 2008, 19:54

:clap: greaterings to Bomber stuff...nice Job !!
KESSLER 180
KESSLER 171
APEX PLATES
VIRUS Berserker Zylon 185
F2 race titanium-TD2
-Northwave 950

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István
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Post by István » Thursday 6 November 2008, 22:49

Someone please explain me the compatibility of cant disks and at the same time the incompatibility of e-rings. I'm lost.

What stops me from buying the new e-rings and putting it under my TD2?

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Hans
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Spare parts

Post by Hans » Friday 7 November 2008, 0:19

István wrote:Someone please explain me the compatibility of cant disks and at the same time the incompatibility of e-rings. I'm lost.

What stops me from buying the new e-rings and putting it under my TD2?
Nothing but there aren't any spareparts from the TD3 available yet. I spoke to Michelle today and she doesn't know either. You need the new higher urethane rings and the other higher centerdisks (the disk which is attached to your board with screws), than you are fully compatible.

Notice that you are standing higher than. The new TD3 blocks are lower than the TD2 blocks!

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leeho730
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Post by leeho730 » Sunday 9 November 2008, 6:46

István wrote:Someone please explain me the compatibility of cant disks and at the same time the incompatibility of e-rings. I'm lost.

What stops me from buying the new e-rings and putting it under my TD2?
It means you can attach TD3 base plate to TD2 cant disk by using same M8 x 16mm bolts.... so you don't need to buy TD3 cant disks if you have some TD2 2nd board kits already attached to your board.

What stops you from buying the new e-rings and putting it under your TD2 are two things: thicker center disks and longer M6 flat bolts, as new e-rings are 5mm thicker.
I suppose if you can get hold of these parts, TD2 cant disks and TD3 e-rings might be compatible. As far as I can see, all the insert holes for e-rings on cant disks for both models look similar in shape and size.

What is really interesting to me is that if I attach TD3 base plate to TD2 cant disk (which I already shaped 3mm off), then the overall binding height is going to be really, really low. But no Ti bails! :cry:

For me, I would rather wait for TD3 toe bail to be available separately and then attach it to my TD2 (and of course I should wait for the exchange rate to go up as well :wink:) I also flipped the heel block front to back of my TD2 for more adjustability as my boot size is quite small (25) so it won't be compabible, either. The season's over in NZ so no hurry! :lol:
Swoard 168M&S / Dual 158
TD3SW /F2 / Ibex
Stratos / RC10 / T700

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Hans
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Exhangables TD2 - TD3

Post by Hans » Sunday 9 November 2008, 9:53

Next thing:
TD2 cantdisks are the same cantdisks for the TD3, they have been unchanged. So if you have TD2's you have to buy TD3 erings and TD3 centerdisks: then you have a TD3 base.

The new TD3 heelreceivers and TD3 frontlevers with the lowered blocks from the TD3 don't fit on a TD2 baseplate. The TD3 blocks are lower and the lugs are just so assembled that they are lower than the base of the blocks. So you need a new TD3 baseplate if you want the new frontlever and heelreceiver.

All in all, just buy yourself a whole new binding then.

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leeho730
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Re: Exhangables TD2 - TD3

Post by leeho730 » Sunday 9 November 2008, 11:30

Hans wrote:Next thing:
TD2 cantdisks are the same cantdisks for the TD3, they have been unchanged. So if you have TD2's you have to buy TD3 erings and TD3 centerdisks: then you have a TD3 base.
Or just attach TD3 base plate to TD2 cant disk while it's still attached to the board.

There might be a way to utilize bomber suspension kit:

http://www.bomberonline.com/store/acces ... on_kit.cfm

It says that the durometer that goes under the center disk is 4.7mm thick, which means that it is probably right height to combine TD3 e-rings with TD2 center disks, and it comes with elongated M6 mounting screws.

Bomber Online also sells Suspension Kit Center Disk separately:

http://www.bomberonline.com/store/acces ... erdisk.cfm

With this the only problem is to find M6x21mm bolts and TD3 e-rings, whicy Bomber Online does not sell yet.

My belief is that it is waste of time, unless someone wants to save maybe 30 or 40 bucks, provided one can find M6x21mm nuts and TD3 e-rings. Otherwise might as well buy TD3 2nd board kit or new TD3 binding.
Hans wrote:The new TD3 heelreceivers and TD3 frontlevers with the lowered blocks from the TD3 don't fit on a TD2 baseplate. The TD3 blocks are lower and the lugs are just so assembled that they are lower than the base of the blocks. So you need a new TD3 baseplate if you want the new frontlever and heelreceiver.

All in all, just buy yourself a whole new binding then.
Haha, what I meant was this:

http://www.bomberonline.com/store/bindi ... e_clip.cfm

If I can buy TD3 version of this, then I can just attach it to my TD2. As far as I can see on the picture, not much has changed regarding toe bail width. I believe toe-bail still uses same micro-adjustment mechanism:

"Through Shaft Design on Bails: No more shoulder bolts, the TD3 uses a one piece through shaft to connect the lugs/bail assembly to the binding. Simple, strong, and on line with the Trench Digger's reputation for set-and-forget reliability. We also still maintained the Micro-Adjustable of the lugs if needed for fine tuning the boot fit."

http://www.bomberonline.com/store/bindi ... andard.cfm

Most people would have to shorten the toe bail wire to accomodate low-profile toe bail clip, but I believe this is pre-shortened for us in new TD3... perfect.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

At the moment, I believe that new TD3 thick e-ring will increase suspension and improve lateral flex for some mobility. I also believe that new toe block will finally stop that annoying phenomenon where toe clip would continuously bang against the board :x However, using TD2 cant-disk + TD3 base plate will lower overall height even further for more responsiveness, while retaining suspension. I want to try both, but money is an issue here, especially since I bought TD2 this year!

My conclusion? I will probably wait for Ti version or Jacques' review. :)
Swoard 168M&S / Dual 158
TD3SW /F2 / Ibex
Stratos / RC10 / T700

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pokkis
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Post by pokkis » Sunday 9 November 2008, 14:03

Instead buying Suspension Kit Center Disk separately one can cut similar ones from polycarbonate. But TD3 e-rings look guite interesting wwhen they are available separately.

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Post by Niklas M » Wednesday 12 November 2008, 4:06

Hello! Anyone know if you can use the td3 heel stepin on the td2??? Is it compatible?

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leeho730
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Post by leeho730 » Wednesday 12 November 2008, 5:34

Niklas M wrote:Hello! Anyone know if you can use the td3 heel stepin on the td2??? Is it compatible?
Fin mentioned 'channel cut into the [TD3's] Base Plate' to clear the Lugs in this thread: http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/s ... hp?t=22300

You can clearly see the "channels" cut on each corner of TD3 base plate underneath the lugs in this picture:
Image

In case if you do not know what the lug is, please refer to this:

http://www.bomberonline.com/store/bindi ... s_lugs.cfm

So the answer is NO, unless you modify TD2 base plate by cutting your own 2 channels (or chop that part... which is not hard by the way) on each side of the toe block.
Swoard 168M&S / Dual 158
TD3SW /F2 / Ibex
Stratos / RC10 / T700

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pokkis
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Post by pokkis » Wednesday 12 November 2008, 8:08

TD3 heel receiver is compatiple with TD2s.

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Schneewurm
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Post by Schneewurm » Wednesday 12 November 2008, 8:45

Crazy changes in US! New president / New bomber-bindings!

So I hope the new president will do things better than bombers industries!
Let me ask some questions about theirs new handicraft.

The Bomber Industries Trench Digger 3, are this realy bindings or simply snow-collectors?

No-no As always Bomber does not make wimpy gear! - so what I want to say: As I saw once the aluminium heel receiver at TD2, I was shaking my head! (had some experience with my home brew bindings, the first and only one step-in-safety-bindings on the whole world / binding base was from Meyer). My first and immediate improvement, was changing from aluminium to a steel heel receiver! But the US boys knowed how to make money with sicking aluminium-receiver - even it was not Swiss Made product!

And now just look to the new Fin-Tec heels! Full of metall, can you imagine how good snow will freeze on? Even on spring time, with fast changing teperatures. Just walk in, with Your Fin-Tec in the (allmost warm and wet) cablecar - walk out of the cablecar 8 minutes later and 1130 meter higher, and probable 12° colder, to the snow and you will be very astonished what happens!

O.K. that will happen only to authentic and/or to serious carvers. Beginners or enjoyers of beginners slopes, like You can find them in Soelden (*), or american carvers who doesn't use anything else, then slow-motion chairlifts, will be fine with this new fin-tec's.
I myself prefer good heels, just because I'm on higher speed - no not only on +10 %, I'm talking about a double speed, You know! Double speed? That means a plus of 100 %, You can also talk about twice of distance or high on same time! Look just at this:

Sölden: Gondola Schwarze Schneid I + II, 537 m of elevation in about 7½ minutes / gondola speed at 6 meter/second, offering nice carpet-crafted seats, for a residental recreation time for over-tired carvers.
Laax: Grab-Sogn-Gion, cable-car, 1128 m of elevation in about 8½ minutes / cable-car speed at 12 meter/second, no seats in cable-car - just because people want to do some winter-sports - nothing else!
- and You can find many more examples like Lagalp/Diavolleza/Andermatt/Zermatt and so on!

Downhill on the black slope in Laax should be done also fast (every 10-11 minutes cable-car starts again, it needs also time for get out of upper station/ clip in - clip out and enter the lower station). There is no time to sit on the slope, make posings befor some snow-bar's, or just stop for recreation!
So I would hate it, to take some additional time for de-icing bindings/heels from bombers industries, like they do it on airplanes at airports!

Rubber-plates: What do You think, why the first F2-Proflex-heel have been changed and rubber is now surounding the whole plastic-heel? (are Fin-tec's slide-tec's?) What's the wight of such an alu-block? What do You think how the shell/construction/plastics of the boots will react with such a rigid block?
How do You want to prevent walking over sharp stones on mountains. They will scratch the aluminium of Your Fin-Tec. How do You prevent to touch down with this scratched heel and also with a no scatched heel to the deck of Your board. It's time to collect now scratches and depressions on Your carveboard not only from ski-sticks, but also from your own boots!

Fully 3 Years of development for Bomber TD3 and Fin-Tec (not only 3 month)! So I'am waiting first, to similiar longterm results of this TD-3 and the Fin-Tec!


(*) Soelden switched the colours of their almost blue, ultra easy slopes on the glacier just for season 2008/2009: a red, easy to ride slope, has now the colour black (slope 31, beside Schwarze Schneid I, since decades it was red). I asked a Söldner tourist salesmen, if they moved some mountains to get more steepness for this new marking. He said nothing was done, it's just a new marking!
Gliding on Snowboards,
like Pogo, Kessler, Virus, Hot, Nidecker and others,
from 151 up to 183 cm and 14 to 27.4 cm width,
covering any kind of shapes with
any kind of boots and bindings.

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István
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Post by István » Wednesday 12 November 2008, 10:13

Schneewurm, I am trying to get the point you are trying to make in this lengthy post.

1. Alu heel receiver suck. It is a good thing that Bomber changed it to steel ones. You already figured this out years before.

2. Full metal heel piece suck, because it will collect ice and snow and on top of that it will look ugly when it gest scratched.

Am I right?

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kurtsk8
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Post by kurtsk8 » Wednesday 12 November 2008, 10:57

sorry :) which is Meyer bindings? :)
"I miei sci sbattono, vibrano, sbandano. Io no."

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Hans
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Don't think so

Post by Hans » Wednesday 12 November 2008, 12:05

I don't think there will be much of difference between that alu and plastic intecheelcap if you are only looking at sticking snow to the heel of the boot. I now have problems with sticking snow to my plastic intecboot. This will be probably staying the same but with the difference that the TD3 stepin has an other system so that the sticking snow will be going off the boots when you step in your intecheelreceiver of the TD3. Those Fintec heels have rubber soles, so no scratching to your board if you have noticed the pictures well.

The performance and safety though of those alu FIN intecheels will probably be better as they are firmer as those plastic ones.

This said, I drop the post of Schneewurm into carbagebag concerning the Fintec heels.

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