Releasing bindings

[nakaniko]

I see you've done almost the way I want to do, very good, thanks.
But I don't want to make holes in my bindings, so I've simply passed the key-chain type leash around the rubber spacer on external side of front binding, I'm gonna do the same on rear binding, Burton Race. When thightened to the board the side rubber spacers push hard to the board surface so imho no way for the leash to be pulled away. I'll Try to make some photos.
But the next step I think it will be probably passing a longer piece of cord around the binding disk, obviously under the binding body, and then screw down the bindings.
The third step - yes I'm a lazy boy - is to make or buy a proper m6 screw with a metal ring on the top, to be used in the inserts left free in my Burton Speed, and then attach the leash there, so to have safety even in the worster case of a disk breackage.
On skilifts I'll use only the front leash attached, before riding down the slopes I'll close the lever and then attach the rear leash, not a big loss of time compared to a normal soft binding (but I use Flow...).
About snow-stopper some years ago I saw on the web an attempt made by a sweden or finnish comany, but requiring dedicated boards. On my flowbinding I've thought many times it would be almost easy, placing a spring that can keep the flowback of FRONT binding reclined and down when opened, in the way that the back lever act like a brake down on the snow, but... I still haven't worked on the idea, hehehe. But it also depends from the binding degrees setup. ON hard boards mostly the front lever of ftront binding falls over the board, so no way, only pheraphs adding a spring and an hook...
sorry for bad english and/or mad ideas

[Kallo]

never had such an experience, luckily ... but three weeks ago I dislocated my shoulder after a high-speed front crash. immediately before crashing, I fel like something was moving on the back binding ... and yesterday I found that the two screws of the intec system were loose ... bindings are phiokka macho ...

[zbird]

In 1995, I hit a rock going on the rear binding going fast down the piste which ripped out the binding and inserts off the board. The binding didn't release or break. I did fracture(greenstick type) my left leg in about 20 pieces and spent 6 months recovering. The next year I bought Bomber bindings as those were the best built at that time as I was worried about unintended binding release as has happened to a few of my friends.

In the years since, I have "popped out" only once. It was Springtime with a lot of sun and the snow was getting very inconsistent with some soft snow here and there. I buried the nose of the board on a hard frontside turn and as I was thrown downhill over the board and at the same time BOTH bindings released but I was able to stop after a bit of sliding.

The board can become a giant lever if ONE binding releases and the board turns the wrong way(as what happened to me in 1995). I think any safety measure we can invent has to take "leverage" into account. If the binding releases, the safety device should prevent rotation of the board. It does look like the nylon cordage pictured previously probably would
do the job. I may implement this solution--thank you.

Jeff

[actionreplay]

Hello,
For my next bindings, I'm not sure I'll be able to make a rope loop as I did with my old plastic ones (just making holes).
So, I'm looking for a device directly fixed on the board, not on the binding.

What do you think about something like this :





To fix it to the board, I see two options :

1- to put new "inserts" (I'm not sure it's the same word in english) in the board. It's not that easy to do since it requires specific tools, and it's inserted from the sole of the board). See for instance :


2- to make holes in the board, and screw in it, exactly as it is done to put ski bindings on a ski. But I'm not sure about how strong it is, since I guess a ski has some specific re-inforcement where bindings are put ?


If you have any experience about 1 or 2, thank you for advices...

[nakaniko]

Hi actioreply.
Surely fixing a leash directly to the board is the final solution, the best solution, I agree. But as for every board there is always some original insert left free by binding screws, the best solution imho is finding a way to use them, instead of making holes and putting new inserts.
I'm telling this because I've aready done this kind work, doing a selfmade splitboard for my girlfriend, but choosing the 8,5x2,5 Voilè inserts pattern instead the fixed stance of the split-your own-board kit; and so making 20 holes and placing 20 inserts. I've found for every single hole that is a critical work, having to reduce the thickness of the board woodcore to leave some room for insert head; so imho good for an old board to be transformed in a freeride device for powder snow, not for technical alpine boards.
In my Burton Speed 168W, using about 50 cm stance, two original central inserts are left free, even if really near to the sidewalls of Burton bindings, so I can imagin that also on a 4x4 board an original insert should remain accessible to at least a single m6 screws, that should be ok to withstand the limited forces of such an emergency situation.
Yes you could try the solution of four simple screws made for wood to simply fix the device shown over the topsheet, but for sure it' not the more beautiful solution, and you'vve to crefully seal all the holes.
Imho - sorry for my english.

[actionreplay]

Unfortunately, perhaps because of my stance, I have no free insert that is not covered by my bindings :



I don't really care about the ugliness of my future solution. My concern is : how strong will be a device attached by two or four screws to the board...
Anyone knows what kind of screw I should use to do so ? Ski screws (I don't know if it is designed for ski topsheet only or not), or wood screws ?

My board is a DURET Alpine : the exact same mould than the Sword Gen1, but the materials may be different (it was the factory which produced the Sword at that time, and they produced they own boards with the same mould). So, I don't know what structure it is.

[xyxx]

haven't been here on the forum for a while, thank you all for these indeed very interesting suggestions.
As for myself, I ended up using stiffer bindings on narrow boards (over 60 degree angles), and using f2s on wider boards only. Not sure if this is sound from the engineering point of view, but no releases this winter so far.

[nils]

My board is a DURET Alpine : the exact same mould than the Sword Gen1, but the materials may be different (it was the factory which produced the Sword at that time, and they produced they own boards with the same mould). So, I don't know what structure it is.

cheap poplar and bidirectionnal fiber, no carbon, 1000 ptex base...
indeed the same mold, because we let them at Duret use it for a short serie of monoskies, which turned to be ( without us knowing) a big batch of alpine snowboards....nice uhh?
Board is not that bad considering what is inside, but do not try too hard in difficult conditions ( core will not withstand pressures as good as the original core..)

N

[nakaniko]

Solution number one "key-chain type leash around the rubber spacer on external side of front binding, the same on rear binding, Burton Race" didn't work, leash has come out from the spacer.
So I'm gonna try with other two, the first, i.e. "passing a longer piece of cord around the binding disk, obviously under the binding body, and then screw down the bindings" I think could work for many bindings, also directly using a flat long leash, the most comon type. This for peaple with bindings settings that doesn't leave any insert free to be used for the purpose.
But my Burton Speed as told leave me the third solution, so if I have some time I'll work on it, and make some photos.
But now windsurf is calling...