hardboots for EC: another approach
Moderators: fivat, rilliet, Arnaud, nils
Re: hardboots for EC: another approach
rahan31, are you saying the backside springs are strong enough to really give any substantial progressive flex?
I'm not sure if anyone here also rides soft boots, but on my freestyle board, i have a particularly soft high-back that i set with the max forward lean. This pretty much gives you a nice progressive heelside.
It's this technine binding here: https://technine.com/products/pro-niner ... 7439892504
I think there's something in that gap in that technine highback too that makes flex even more progressive.
It'd be nice if i can replicate that feeling in a hardboot.
I'm not sure if anyone here also rides soft boots, but on my freestyle board, i have a particularly soft high-back that i set with the max forward lean. This pretty much gives you a nice progressive heelside.
It's this technine binding here: https://technine.com/products/pro-niner ... 7439892504
I think there's something in that gap in that technine highback too that makes flex even more progressive.
It'd be nice if i can replicate that feeling in a hardboot.
Re: hardboots for EC: another approach
It's a bit difficult to explain.
On classic boots (UPZ, Head and Deeluxe)you have a mechanical rear stop on heel side that allows you to keep a good angle, vertical or a bit inclined to the toe side while backside turning. The heel side spring on these shells don't work on there whole range, with a soft heelside spring you will get rear stop quicker than with harder one. But you will get it anyway.
On Backland shells there is no rear stop and your heelside springs have to use their whole range before your backside angle is blocked. The risk is to get a bad inclination (above 90°) in backside. To compensate you have to adjust with a higher value of the toe side inclination.
Hoping it's clear
On classic boots (UPZ, Head and Deeluxe)you have a mechanical rear stop on heel side that allows you to keep a good angle, vertical or a bit inclined to the toe side while backside turning. The heel side spring on these shells don't work on there whole range, with a soft heelside spring you will get rear stop quicker than with harder one. But you will get it anyway.
On Backland shells there is no rear stop and your heelside springs have to use their whole range before your backside angle is blocked. The risk is to get a bad inclination (above 90°) in backside. To compensate you have to adjust with a higher value of the toe side inclination.
Hoping it's clear
ECpro161M,F2,Raichle124+ACSS+Palau
SwellPanik Magistral175
Volkl Selecta163
SP Fastec,Burton DriverX
SwellPanik Magistral175
Volkl Selecta163
SP Fastec,Burton DriverX
Re: hardboots for EC: another approach
I'm trying to see if i understand this clearly. I think you're referring to the Backland walk mode that allows the cuff to go way past 90 in the heelside direction.
Not sure why this is such an obstacle though because i'd assume you can just build a rear stop into the spring system itself that prevents going past 90 (ideally even a little before that) which negates this extra range of motion you get from the walk mode. I'd assume that the spring systems posted on this this thread which have the heelside spring, do have something like this.
And ideally this would be adjustable like the locking mechanisms that allow you to adjust forward lean on soft boot highbacks. You can decide exactly where you want that heelside dead stop point to be.
Yes, in order to increase more of a progressive range on the heelside, you would have to create a higher value of toeside inclination like you mentioned. Which is just like increasing forward lean on a highback. It does change the feel of just standing and forces your knees to stay bent more, but with a softer highback you can pretty much still stand up straight and not feel too much abrubt pressure from the highback like you would with say a carbon highback.
Not sure why this is such an obstacle though because i'd assume you can just build a rear stop into the spring system itself that prevents going past 90 (ideally even a little before that) which negates this extra range of motion you get from the walk mode. I'd assume that the spring systems posted on this this thread which have the heelside spring, do have something like this.
And ideally this would be adjustable like the locking mechanisms that allow you to adjust forward lean on soft boot highbacks. You can decide exactly where you want that heelside dead stop point to be.
Yes, in order to increase more of a progressive range on the heelside, you would have to create a higher value of toeside inclination like you mentioned. Which is just like increasing forward lean on a highback. It does change the feel of just standing and forces your knees to stay bent more, but with a softer highback you can pretty much still stand up straight and not feel too much abrubt pressure from the highback like you would with say a carbon highback.
Re: hardboots for EC: another approach
I think you get it
ECpro161M,F2,Raichle124+ACSS+Palau
SwellPanik Magistral175
Volkl Selecta163
SP Fastec,Burton DriverX
SwellPanik Magistral175
Volkl Selecta163
SP Fastec,Burton DriverX
Re: hardboots for EC: another approach
tryin to see if i can't build one up myself. Otherwise i'll hit one of you guys up.
Re: hardboots for EC: another approach
This is simple system. You don't need special tools or materials.pokkis wrote:One for Paula, light with titan screw
Pro 2
.950
Complete
.950
Complete
Re: hardboots for EC: another approach
I might add spring to back side during long summer nights. If it does not add too much weight
And upgrade mine to similar one too.
And upgrade mine to similar one too.
Re: hardboots for EC: another approach
Does anyone know what tool to use to remove the cuff from the inside? The outside is just a simple torx bit. Here's the inside nut:
I thought a socket wrench was going to work for the inside, but the inner nut is really flat/shallow. The filleted edge of my socket bit doesn't seem to really grab onto it. I don't really want to put in a lot of force either and risk stripping it. Here's my socket bit:
There's got to be something for this.
I guess i can just drill it out too like i've done with other boots that just use rivets, but it seems with the outer torx bit they designed it with the intention of easy removal.
I thought a socket wrench was going to work for the inside, but the inner nut is really flat/shallow. The filleted edge of my socket bit doesn't seem to really grab onto it. I don't really want to put in a lot of force either and risk stripping it. Here's my socket bit:
There's got to be something for this.
I guess i can just drill it out too like i've done with other boots that just use rivets, but it seems with the outer torx bit they designed it with the intention of easy removal.
Re: hardboots for EC: another approach
Never done such a thing, sorry.
But why remove the frictionless pivot? It's the best sytem i've ever seen
But why remove the frictionless pivot? It's the best sytem i've ever seen
ECpro161M,F2,Raichle124+ACSS+Palau
SwellPanik Magistral175
Volkl Selecta163
SP Fastec,Burton DriverX
SwellPanik Magistral175
Volkl Selecta163
SP Fastec,Burton DriverX
Re: hardboots for EC: another approach
Just make the socet bit sharper.
Take 1mm material of. Use lathe or even angle grinder.
Take 1mm material of. Use lathe or even angle grinder.
Pro 2
.950
Complete
.950
Complete
Re: hardboots for EC: another approach
Grinding down the socket seems like a good idea.
I'm removing the cuff bolts to try and add an additional cuff/strap to the ankle area for even better heel hold.
I'm removing the cuff bolts to try and add an additional cuff/strap to the ankle area for even better heel hold.
Re: hardboots for EC: another approach
Maybe you should try another liner or even boots.
Pro 2
.950
Complete
.950
Complete
Re: hardboots for EC: another approach
With my La sportiva Sideral that i've used for the last 3 years, i just used only the stock mid cuff and it felt totally fine. I've actually tried the cuff pivot buckle on it the Sideral and actually didn't really like it. I remember it created some odd pressure points.
So i'm really just curious to see how it feels on this particular Atomic Backland i just got because i know some people actually prefer the buckle more in that spot cuff hinge spot. I'm also about to start some boot punching so i want to make sure everything else feels perfect before i get into that.
I've tried a Full tilt ski boot before and that mid cuff at the hinge feels really good.
I had a Garmont AT boot for a season before my Sideral and that boot actually need both the top, mid, and front buckle ALL locked down to feel secure. That particular boot also had extremely soft plastic.
So i think it's possible that different boots, depending on their flex or shape, can have different ideal buckle setups.
So i'm really just curious to see how it feels on this particular Atomic Backland i just got because i know some people actually prefer the buckle more in that spot cuff hinge spot. I'm also about to start some boot punching so i want to make sure everything else feels perfect before i get into that.
I've tried a Full tilt ski boot before and that mid cuff at the hinge feels really good.
I had a Garmont AT boot for a season before my Sideral and that boot actually need both the top, mid, and front buckle ALL locked down to feel secure. That particular boot also had extremely soft plastic.
So i think it's possible that different boots, depending on their flex or shape, can have different ideal buckle setups.
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