Swoard new generation: impressions

Support about extremecarving or freecarve/freeride Swoard boards, hardboots and bindings

Moderators: fivat, rilliet, nils

User avatar
bowen
Rank 5
Rank 5
Posts: 111
Joined: Sunday 28 March 2004, 18:20
Location: Oberbayern

Post by bowen » Monday 14 November 2005, 12:26

bomber TD2 with yellow ring/ deeluxe suzuka with "vorlage" pemanent open/
stance approx.: 52
angle:60/53(it is much as possible, less angle on rear foot an i have overhang)

....i think i have to put it into mi signature, now as i have a real board :lol:
...sunny days ar the best!

User avatar
raphael
Rank 5
Rank 5
Posts: 1055
Joined: Thursday 12 December 2002, 16:44
Location: Paris France
Contact:

Post by raphael » Monday 14 November 2005, 12:35

bowen wrote:bomber TD2 with yellow ring/ deeluxe suzuka with "vorlage" pemanent open/
I'm not surprised. That's what i guessed reading this:
bowen wrote:there where big areas with pure ice and you can ride throug with the swoard like you weahring hockey skates on your feet :lol:
...because it as been said recently that large base bidings (such as F2) where not very confortable on ice.
Swoard 168M / Undertaker 185 + F2 Race Ti + tuned Raichle 324
Resorts : St Lary / Peyragudes / La Thuile
Carver toute l'année : carveboard.fr

User avatar
Mattias112
Rank 3
Rank 3
Posts: 20
Joined: Friday 2 December 2005, 9:48
Location: Sweden

How to measure setback on my new SWOARD

Post by Mattias112 » Friday 2 December 2005, 9:51

Hi
Do I measure setback on the bottomcurve of the board or on the sidcut?
// :?
RAD Black, Diamond MW, Blackburn...

User avatar
rcrobar
Rank 5
Rank 5
Posts: 238
Joined: Sunday 24 March 2002, 1:09
Location: BC, Canada

Set Back - Side Wall

Post by rcrobar » Sunday 4 December 2005, 1:34

Hi

The inserts are installed so that they are exactly centered on the effective edge.

On the Extremecarver, 1st generation, the side wall was black while the tip and tail side wall was white. The inserts were centered in relation to the black side wall.

The Extemecarver was designed to be ridden with no setback. Set your bindings up so that they are centered. To do this make sure they are placed in the same location (symmetrical) on the front and rear insert pack.

I am assuming the first and second generation Swoards are the same.

Rob

kelvin o
Rank 4
Rank 4
Posts: 77
Joined: Friday 22 March 2002, 21:47
Location: New York, NY
Contact:

Post by kelvin o » Monday 5 December 2005, 3:19

My First Impressions... Swoard2D 168M-003

Well, I had the board out yesterday on early snow for the first day out of the season. The first couple of hours were spent just getting used to being out on the snow and trying to EC right out of the gate which is actually pretty silly (trying to do it right off first day of the season first time out on the board :oops: ). After coming to my senses I went back to basics and just tried to practice the rotation technique that is recommended and figuring out the timing of the push-pull. Once I got back to a semblance of sanity and remembering my basics I could actually ride the board.

Well to the board... it was great. Felt damp and yet since I didn't have the complete confidence in myself to push it on the ice I felt that I could later when I did have a bit more time on the board due to the even pressure I could feel throughout the edge. After being on the board I COULD feel the torsional stiffness yet the longitudinal stiffness was manageable even if I am in the low range of the recommended weight for the 168m (145 lbs., 65.7 k). Although, if I could do it again I think I would have gone for the 168S (not the 161M) if that were being manufactured anymore. One thing that I did notice was that if I reverted to the pressing the knees toward each other (not together) technique that I used in the past that the board would turn easier particularly at lower speeds. This makes sense since, for this board, the board deflection is probably more important to the turn than the sidecut. All in all a great first impression and I'm looking forward to getting to know the board better in the coming weeks and months. I'll update as I get to know the board better. And maybe, if I ever get a chance at a clear run and good snow, a report on my EC'ing progress.

Kelvin

User avatar
nils
Swoard founder
Swoard founder
Posts: 3043
Joined: Friday 22 March 2002, 19:22
Location: Lyon, France - Swoard team
Contact:

:)

Post by nils » Monday 5 December 2005, 9:31

hope u can test it on icy slopes too :)
( well powder is nice also)

Nils

kelvin o
Rank 4
Rank 4
Posts: 77
Joined: Friday 22 March 2002, 21:47
Location: New York, NY
Contact:

Post by kelvin o » Monday 5 December 2005, 15:19

I'm sure I'll have plenty of oppurtunities to test it out on ice here on the east coast! But I think I have to perfect my form before I do that much. I did run into a couple of ice patches on Saturday and the board completely hooked up but unfortunately due to my limitations my body wasn't in quite the right position to take advantage of the board's capabilities so I'm afraid the board left me "behind" (on it :oops: ).

User avatar
Mattias112
Rank 3
Rank 3
Posts: 20
Joined: Friday 2 December 2005, 9:48
Location: Sweden

Center of effective edge

Post by Mattias112 » Monday 5 December 2005, 20:53

Hi
I still wonder how you measure the center of the effective edge?!!!!!
Please help!
:?
RAD Black, Diamond MW, Blackburn...

kelvin o
Rank 4
Rank 4
Posts: 77
Joined: Friday 22 March 2002, 21:47
Location: New York, NY
Contact:

Post by kelvin o » Monday 5 December 2005, 20:57

I think Rcrobar had a pretty good explaination but I'll add my two cents to try to clarify...

Look at the inserts on your board. Find the midpoint between the two closest inserts. That midpoint should be the exact center of your board and sidecut. Does THAT help? :)

If you want to install your bindings with a setback from the center, measure back from the point you found in the above step (recommended installation is in the center of the board/sidecut).

kelvin o
Rank 4
Rank 4
Posts: 77
Joined: Friday 22 March 2002, 21:47
Location: New York, NY
Contact:

Re: How to measure setback on my new SWOARD

Post by kelvin o » Monday 5 December 2005, 21:01

Mattias112 wrote:Hi
Do I measure setback on the bottomcurve of the board or on the sidcut?
// :?
sidecut... see post above to find center. :)

oliv
Rank 5
Rank 5
Posts: 263
Joined: Thursday 10 February 2005, 17:31
Location: grenoble-france

Post by oliv » Monday 5 December 2005, 21:06


kelvin o
Rank 4
Rank 4
Posts: 77
Joined: Friday 22 March 2002, 21:47
Location: New York, NY
Contact:

Post by kelvin o » Monday 5 December 2005, 21:22

Since the inserts are centered on the sidecut finding the center with the inserts would be a lot easier but the method described in the bomber article might work as well. Should probably get the real answer from the designers (Jacques et.al.) though.

User avatar
nils
Swoard founder
Swoard founder
Posts: 3043
Joined: Friday 22 March 2002, 19:22
Location: Lyon, France - Swoard team
Contact:

middle of effective edge

Post by nils » Monday 5 December 2005, 21:39

on our board, the middle of effective edge is at the middle of the insert zone.
Basically what i'm suggesting, as always is experimenting! There is no rule or magic law since we are all different with different riding styles.
On the swoard: start with symetrical feet stance from middle, then eventually test other distances from middle step by step until you find your way!

Nils

User avatar
Mattias112
Rank 3
Rank 3
Posts: 20
Joined: Friday 2 December 2005, 9:48
Location: Sweden

Effective edge, running length

Post by Mattias112 » Tuesday 6 December 2005, 9:49

Hi!
The reason why I'm asking is that when I measure de center of the effective edge(in contct with snow during turns) therie is a set back of 4 cm(on the binding inserts) of my nemly recieved Swoard 168 M. But when I measure the centere of running lenght(in contct with snow riding straight) it is in the center. And of course I'm curius to find out if my board is made the right way. Since I have short legs and ride with a narrow stande (45 cm) I cannot move my bindings front/aft more than 5 mm.
So is my Swoard correct or is it a production miss!?
/Mat :?
RAD Black, Diamond MW, Blackburn...

User avatar
nils
Swoard founder
Swoard founder
Posts: 3043
Joined: Friday 22 March 2002, 19:22
Location: Lyon, France - Swoard team
Contact:

hehe

Post by nils » Tuesday 6 December 2005, 10:29

there is indeed a difference between radius max width and contact length because there is subtilities in the shape of the board, to make is grippy but also not locked in the turn.
the center is the center point between the two groups of inserts: its that simple!
So you just want to set your bindings according to the center between the bindings ( next graphic topsheet we might want to mark it with a sign somehow) and experiment from therer.

Basically what i do on all boards: use center insert group on each foot, and change ( narrower or wider) depending on how the board feels. I think one should not use the stance in cm you are used to on the swoard at first, because the fact that you are not riding with cant and lift is making those stance number false. Regular stance will be found during carved turns where the boards extremities get closer and then natural cant is done by the board. This is why when riding the swoard on flats, it usually appears uncomfortable at once, but when you get used to it! Its perfect:)

Nils

PS: do you think we would release a 168 that would be false ;)
Its the same mold for all 168, so no worries!

N.

Locked