Burton E Deck 163 any good?

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Hazel
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Burton E Deck 163 any good?

Post by Hazel » Saturday 20 April 2002, 14:41

I have a old 163 E Deck with only about 40 days riding on it.
I really enjoy riding it on those cold icy days hear in Aussie.
I would like to take my carving further though, can this old deck be made to do the business or is it the wrong shape, width etc. My boots are Burton free carve and bindings are top burton ones but not the graphite jobs.
One kid (another onthe way) station wagon etc resticts what I can do I
would really like to make this setup work any tips? Thanks guys for a great site.

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rilliet
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Post by rilliet » Sunday 21 April 2002, 8:08

Sorry, but I have no idea about what is a Burton 163 E deck...

Jacques

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rcrobar
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Post by rcrobar » Sunday 21 April 2002, 17:35

Hi Hazel

I’m pretty sure that your e-deck is from the 98 season and has a nose and tail similar to a Proir 4WD. The sidecut radius’ of the 3 models offered was: 8.58, 8.97 and your 163’s radius was 9.17. This radius is probably not going to allow you to progress to “E-Carve” style turns. Check out the thread on sidecut radius, the Swiss masters recommend 13m radius.
In the thread they explain why.

The effective edge is 137mm on your e-deck, which I be is also not going to have enough hold.

Your boots, the freecarve, have 3 straps; only one at the top with a very soft tongue. Another recommendation from the Swiss masters was to use my Raichle 325’s with the stiffest race tongue, while in the walk mode. My guess is that Raichle boots are twice as stiff as the Burton Freecarve. You may need more support, the shell of your boots may simple collapse under the great pressure, the tongue should be doing the work (or a spring mechanism on the back of the boot).

I bet you can have a lot of fun with your set up, but E-Carves will be tough..... this is only my guess however.

Please take my ideas with a grain of salt, I in no way pretend to be an expert. I’m just a board nut trying to help if I can.

If you can get out to the hill at all, with a young child and a second on the way, your wife deserves an “Extreme-Wife Award, “ and you are a man to be admired .... keep up the good. :wink:

Hope this helps
Rob

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nils
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some thought bout the radius to answer your question

Post by nils » Sunday 21 April 2002, 23:54

just came back today of my last day of riding this season...Had to rent, for was away from gear, except from my boots..
Rented the only good board around, a 158 blast, grey model (no clue of year etc), came with snowpro race bindings. Board has a 9m radius and i had to use angles up to 62 on front foot not to drag backside ( having large US 12/ euro 45 SB121 raichle) and boy:
After a few adjustments in the set up, i found i could lay ecarves almost as good as on my proton, which has i think a 14m radius...The only drawbacks, which are quite to be known, is that i'm tall (6.3) and the radius was so small, i was turning into such a small room that the G's were almost ejecting me out of the turn at the end sequence, making it sometimes hard to jump to the other side with proper balance...
This beeing to say that everyone with proper technique can Ecarve any board, its just gonna be less efficient and easier than on boards and set ups designed for it...
Nils
(can't wait to have an E-carver :)

Hazel
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Post by Hazel » Monday 22 April 2002, 3:26

Thanxs Guys for your advice.Ill stick to the E63 and just do the best I can.
If I can just draw a turn out and get as layed out as possible Ill be happy.
Most hard booters in Thredbo seem to do rapid edge to edge carveing.
E carves are a bit like slalom water sking do you think?.
One more thing us southern hemisphereites are only a few months of our season , what excerciss do guys do pre season to build up leg strenght.
I do 6 hours of gymnastics a week but this is a lot of upper body work.
Since my boat broke down Ive done no wake boarding , wake boarding give you legs like tree trunks. Thanks again.

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rcrobar
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Post by rcrobar » Monday 22 April 2002, 4:12

Hi Hazel

I agree with Nils, almost any board can be carved low, but the difference to me is how LONG can you stay low and keep going while still linking turns. This is what the Swiss connection is sharing / teaching /
demonstrating on this site. This is why, I believe, they like and recommend the 13m radius; the speed and the time spent low.

I this right guys?

I really, really enjoy riding shorter boards with a tight radius, (I’m a huge Matthew Bozzetto fan.) I like the feeling of being “whipped “ into the next turn. I too feel that I can consistently go arm pit to arm pit on each turn. The difference for me is that I stay laid out for a very short time, before being popped into the next turn.

I guess the question is what type of carve are you trying to perform?
(The second question is “why isn’t parallel slalom in the Olympics?”)

Regardless of the carve, the answer is always a lot of fun.

Cycling, squats, ice hockey, carve board .... this is how I try to ward off the flab and stay fit.

Take care down under.

Rob

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e deck

Post by binaural » Thursday 25 April 2002, 13:43

Hi!

I´ve ridden an E-deck for a few years untill last year. It´s not a bad board, but it´s very very weak. I replaced it with an F2 Speedster GTS, that´s not top off the bill either, but a lot stiffer and my riding progressed enormously.
A snowboard instructor (I am instructor too BTW) at my school told me he used E-decks for beginners...
It´s a good board to learn carving, but it won´t hold when the speed gets higher or the slope gets steeper...

bye!
jasper

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pokkis
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Post by pokkis » Thursday 25 April 2002, 14:14

I would also like to categorze E-deck more beginner board with hardboots which can be used also with stiffer soft boots. For me it is something llike one step below alpine board on hab:s. On softies it is good pick like BX boards for people who like to carve properly with softies. :)

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