springs for Northwave boots

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pokkis
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Post by pokkis » Monday 6 September 2004, 15:32

Does anyone know source for RABs ?
I mailed to BlueTomato but answer is:
Im afraid we dont, it isnt possible to obtain such parts i believe any longer
So any EU country suggestions :) ?? I need two pairs.

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Matt
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Post by Matt » Monday 6 September 2004, 15:39

It looks like they would have to build some new ones... due to EC style!!

Alpine snowboarding is coming back!! :twisted:
M@.
SWOARD 168H / BLAST 162 / Burton Race / SB324

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Whitey
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Post by Whitey » Monday 6 September 2004, 16:27

Pokkis,

I ordered my RAB from there -> http://stores.ebay.de/st-online (contact: info-pb@surftreff-online.de)

At the time (last spring) they had only one pair on stock but maybe they have had some new supply. At least it would be worth to try :bravo:

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rcrobar
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Buying the RAB

Post by rcrobar » Monday 6 September 2004, 20:18

Hi Pokkis

I'm pretty sure you can buy the Raichle RAB through www.bomberonline.com

Fin and Michelle carry just about every replacement part for the Raichle boots they sell.

Rob

EDIT

Here is the link for the RAB from Bomber

http://www.bomberonline.com/store/boots/parts_af.cfm

They are sold out until November .... ahhhh!!!

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pokkis
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Post by pokkis » Monday 6 September 2004, 20:19

I think it is cheaper buy another pair of Raichles that ordering that from US, taxes and freight. Which is btw quite good option, hmmm

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bowen
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Post by bowen » Monday 6 September 2004, 22:37

good to know, that you can buy this in a shop. i thoght you have to made it your self?!

is this a good version of rab or is it the same like on the indy-boot witch is not that good system?!

greetz

der bowen
...sunny days ar the best!

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vkrouverk
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Post by vkrouverk » Friday 12 November 2004, 20:57

I'm not sure whether this is discussed here, but I found no information about it, so I ask it (and test pic posting) :D So when I perform carpet-testing with Northwave boots then cuff locks up with sole (locking area is marked with red line in picture). How is this dealt with, just cut off the "tongue" from boot's lower part? I should push really hard downward to experience this, but it seems to be possible. Or is boot not supposed to move this far forward at all and I should avoid it by using more harder spring?
TIA,
Vahur, preparing for winter and testing boot mods...
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Converting potential energy to kinetic..

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rcrobar
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NW Spoiler

Post by rcrobar » Wednesday 17 November 2004, 1:13

Hi Vahur

DON'T cut the 'tongue' thing off of the bottom part of your NW boots.

All I did was remove the top black wedge section, as it hung up or got stuck in the same way that your boots have.

I think J&P also removed theirs as well?

Rob

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vkrouverk
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Post by vkrouverk » Wednesday 17 November 2004, 9:12

Thanks, Rob.
I haven't done anything unrecoverable yet to boots, just carpet testing and considering various options.
Will check, whether wedge removing is helpful, but probably in real field testing sometimes later.
Converting potential energy to kinetic..

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harald
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Northwave modification

Post by harald » Wednesday 17 November 2004, 9:45

I have a brand new pair of Northwaves and is about to start the modification process and have read the previous posts, especially the detailed descriptions by rcrobar. Before starting (I am always afraid of doing such things and changing to the worse) I have one question. What is the effect of shortening the yellow spring under the middle bolt? Or put it otherwise, what effect does this spring have in its original length? I see that you put some of the yellow spring under the blue one above the middlebolt. What is the effect of this operation? Is there a need for more springs? I am weighing ca. 79 kg. Well, that was three questions.
harald

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vkrouverk
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Post by vkrouverk » Wednesday 17 November 2004, 11:35

I try to answer though I'm in same position as you (lets see, whether I understand things correctly :)
What is the effect of shortening the yellow spring under the middle bolt? Or put it otherwise, what effect does this spring have in its original length?
Shortening is done in order to provide possibility for maximum forward flex. If spring with original length would be used, then you can't screw mechanism up so much, as it is done in picture and iforward movement will be limited. Originally boots were not intended for such riding style and smaller forward flex was not issue.
I see that you put some of the yellow spring under the blue one above the middlebolt. What is the effect of this operation? Is there a need for more springs?
Intention here is to obtain progressive flex, which works well in all conditions. Generally you need boots, which are easy to flex forward for executing push-pull turns, this is work for softer spring (I used my Raichle 423 with walk mode for this purpose). But on steeper slopes soft forward flex does not provide enough support and therefore there is harder spring, which starts working here (423 in walk mode didn't work in steeper slopes).
Converting potential energy to kinetic..

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harald
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Post by harald » Wednesday 17 November 2004, 15:28

Vahur,
Thanks for your explanation. It is good to know why things such as this is done, not only how. Seems that I also have to do the carpet testing that many of you already have done in order to observe how the mechanism works.
Regards,
harald

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rcrobar
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Softer Springs in Stages

Post by rcrobar » Wednesday 17 November 2004, 18:21

Hi Harald

I can appreciate your hesitation to cut a brand new pair of boots/springs, I too had the same reservations. Looking back on my experiences I would suggest you do a few things different than I did. Here are a few ideas that may help to ease you into your new boots. The idea behind the test/steps is to start with a stiffer spring setting and slowly test slightly softer settings until you find one that is best suited to you.

Test 1

First ride your NW boots without any modifications at all, get to know them a bit, let the liners break in. I too did this. Spend a lot of time with the forward lean settings first, add the small 'nut' to the threaded adjustment so that you can make very accurate adjustments that will not move as a result of vibrations. If your range of motion feels restricted, continue to play with the lean. If the restricted feeling continues, go to test two.

Test 2

Cut ONLY the yellow (stiffest) bottom spring as Patrice did (1/3 - 2/3). Install the springs in the following way:

Very bottom spring - 1/3 Yellow (Heel Side)
Stack top springs - 2/3 Yellow + full UNCUT blue NW spring on top
(The stacking length of the Blue+Yellow is not a prefect match to the rod length, but still works well. There is .5cm of free play, that you may really like.)

This will allow for a greater range of forward movement. If the restricted feeling continues, go to test three.

Test 3

Leave the bottom 1/3 spring.
Leave the top, full length UNCUT, blue NW spring

REMOVE only the 2/3 Yellow spring
Install a SOFTER spring to replace the removed 2/3 yellow spring.
I would buy springs that are EXACTLY the same dimensions as the stock blue NW spring, but with a softer flex. Cut this new spring exactly in half.
Stack the stock Blue NW spring and the new 'cut in half' spring.

This will allow for an easier range of forward movement. If the restricted feeling continues, go to test four.

Test 4

Cut and install the NW springs in exactly the same way that Patrice has done in the previous posts (picture). If the restricted feeling continues, make small cuts to the tongue of the NW boots. Cut the tongue where the natural bending point is.

Some Background Info

This summer I pondered machining a longer 'rod' for my NW boots. This would enable me to use the stock NW yellow spring (heelside) and still permit me to have a longer range of forward motion (toeside). After a good e-mail exchange with Jacques in learned that the original modification served two purposes: 1) A longer range of forward motion. 2) J&P found the original stock uncut yellow NW spring created too much movement during a heelside EC turn. The longer backward range of motion caused J&P to loose their balance backwards during a heelside. Cutting the yellow spring made it harder and solved the balance problem.

Hope this helps :)
Rob

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Hans
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new rod from Rob

Post by Hans » Wednesday 17 November 2004, 20:59

Hi, Rob

Like hearing from you.

Interesting about your mods. Got myself some new bigger Northwaves now (by SITO, thanks) which fits me.

Can you put a picture of your bootmodification with the new rod and springs at this forum? (since pictures can be put here shortly without using a server). I am very curious about it, the length and the diameter of the rod.

Greets, Hans.

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rcrobar
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Post by rcrobar » Wednesday 17 November 2004, 21:43

Hi Hans

I decided not to do the modification, sorry about the poor wording in my previous post.

I didn't build a longer 'rod' because I could not find a spring that was the same size as the stock yellow NW spring .... and STIFFER. My intention was to make the 'rod' exactly the same size/diameter as the original, only longer.

Pray for snow :)
Rob

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