Bindings for EXTREMECARVING > Review: F2 Race Titanium

Post by **Paia** » Monday 26 December 2005, 19:47

all ok now my dad's good mechanic so no problems; by the way we repair them each month...
bye

Post by **Whitey** » Tuesday 3 January 2006, 20:38

Hey F2 bail brakers,

do you accept me to join your gang?

Post by **RicHard** » Tuesday 3 January 2006, 21:48

Whitey wrote:Hey F2 bail brakers,

do you accept me to join your gang?

Yes! Welcome aboard!

Hope that you are fine...

Post by **István** » Wednesday 4 January 2006, 11:04

Seemingly they all brake at the same point.... gues when they bend it in the factory the material gets weaker...

I.

Post by **Paia** » Sunday 8 January 2006, 16:45

Evolution-bails

Post by **drzone** » Monday 9 January 2006, 1:49

Find yourself some old Proflex bindings on ebay. I have an old pair at home that have not broken in almost 10 years. The bails are thicker than the current F2 titanium and have not rusted either.

Post by **RicHard** » Monday 9 January 2006, 11:43

drzone wrote:Find yourself some old Proflex bindings on ebay. I have an old pair at home that have not broken in almost 10 years. The bails are thicker than the current F2 titanium and have not rusted either.

Ehm... the ones I broke are...the Proflex!

This means that you are more lucky than me... But don't trust too much in them! Please, check also the t-nuts under the toe and heels part of the bindings unscrewing them from the titanium plate. I replaced them every two years too...

Post by **pokkis** » Monday 9 January 2006, 11:49

RicHard wrote:from the titanium plate.

I think/believe that base plate is steel not titanium, center disk might be Ti.

Post by **RicHard** » Monday 9 January 2006, 14:29

pokkis wrote:
RicHard wrote:from the titanium plate.
I think/believe that base plate is steel not titanium, center disk might be Ti.

Ehm... but... if the name is "race TITANIUM" and the plate is steel, the toe and heels are plastic, the bails are steel... it seems a little bit strange, to me, that only the central disc is titanium!
:-\
Are you sure?!?!?

The site reports:
"...cut...of hardened titanal base plate and disc...".
Uhmmmmmmmmmmmm...

Post by **fivat** » Wednesday 11 January 2006, 23:28

I have got and tested the 05-06 model. Only the color of the central disks and levers has changed BUT:

there are no more problems about the front bails that may be stuck in the plastic bases, and the metal does not rust anymore...

Conclusion (sorry for repeating myself): these F2 Race Titanium are in my opinion (and along to my personal preferences) the best bindings on the market, as well as for extremecarving than for racing! I highly advise them (with no canting!). No need to modify anything (except removing the canting, hehe).

Note that I close them normally, not too tight (it could be too stiff), not too loose.

Patrice Fivat

Post by **Silver** » Thursday 12 January 2006, 0:00

What about F2 Carve RS ? they seem to be softer than the titanium ...

Silver

Post by **RicHard** » Thursday 12 January 2006, 2:33

fivat wrote:there are no more problems about the front bails that may be stuck in the plastic bases, and the metal does not rust anymore...

Ehm... how can you be so sure about it?

And... I broke the rear bail: is it the same for that one?

Post by **Arnaud** » Thursday 12 January 2006, 9:17

Using both F2 and Phiokka, I want to add a little disadvantage of F2 compared to Phiokka. This is important only for long feet / shoes.
See below the comparison between the 2 binding set at the same angle (47° - rear foot). PH1 plate is shorter

Post by **RicHard** » Thursday 12 January 2006, 10:17

Arnaud wrote:See below the comparizon between the 2 binding set at the same angle (47° - rear foot). PH1 plate is shorter

Well, I don't think this is an issue: in the picture, the black plastic part of the F2 is close to the edge but... the bails are outside of it!
So, if you keep the bails inside (as recommended for extremecarving and not only for it!), the plastic doesn't bother you anymore.
This difference is not an issue, for me.
:-\

Post by **fivat** » Thursday 12 January 2006, 14:09

RicHard wrote:
fivat wrote:there are no more problems about the front bails that may be stuck in the plastic bases, and the metal does not rust anymore...
Ehm... how can you be so sure about it?
And... I broke the rear bail: is it the same for that one?

With the old model, the front bails could be stuck after one day already. After 4 days riding, I still had no problem.

Breaking the bails is another thing. Most riders break a bail (front or back) after 1-2 intense season. So my advise is to order replacement bails in advance, and try to keep new bails on the front foot. Place the old bails on the rear foot, because if you break during a turn (most of the time at the end of the turn) it's easier to control the board and stop with the front foot than the rear foot. It's the best one can do

There are no bindings in the world who never break

(except if your weight is 50 kg, hehe). The stronger the stiffer... So everyone has to choose his own compromise.

Patrice Fivat

ExtremeCarving FORUM

Bindings for EXTREMECARVING > Review: F2 Race Titanium

Broken bails

05-06 model: perfect!

Carve RS

Re: 05-06 model: perfect!

F2 Race vs Phiokka PH1

Re: F2 Race vs Phiokka PH1

Re: 05-06 model: perfect!